Shirt Item Number: Sf812 from the MOA: University of British Columbia

Description

The textile is the lower border and fringe of one half of a poncho shirt. The wide tapestry band has an interlocking bird pattern arranged in diagonal rows with double outlining. The tapestry colours, two shades of yellow, two reds, purple, orange, and blue, repeat regularly even in the outlining. A band of three stripes, one embroidered and two of thinner yellow and red stripes, is sewn above and below the tapestry band. Beneath the lower striped band is a long red string fringe. Z-spun, two ply s, all threads.

History Of Use

Wide cotton poncho shirts with alpaca borders and fringes are typical of those associated with Chancay burials. The weaving techniques and the yarn spin are also typical (Rowe). Reconstructed, the cotton shirt would have had 4 separately woven cloths, 2 for sleeves and 2 for the left and right body of the shirt. The alpaca bands would be added to the lower edges of the shirt body and the sleeves. A shirt, similar in shape, is seen in Rowe (1977).