Robe Item Number: Cb82 from the MOA: University of British Columbia

Description

White robe with light brown embroidery. The man’s robe is made of plain weave cotton cloth, with wide strips sewn together to give desired width. The front and back panels are sewn together along shoulder line, leaving an angled opening for the neck. The panels are also sewn at the bottom corners, narrowing the leg opening. The front and back are embroidered in light brown cotton. The design on the front is a complex pattern of needles, palm leaves, cartouches and knots, with large spiral circles on the right shoulder. The design on the back is a pair of spiral circles enclosing a complex rounded motif. The hem facing is red, black and white cotton.

History Of Use

The baban riga (Hausa), agbádá (Yoruba), or boubou (French) is a large, loose-fitting, ankle-length robe worn by men of different groups in West Africa. The garment is said to have originated in the Middle East and introduced to West Africa by Arab and Berber merchants from the Maghreb and Tuareg through the trans-Saharan trade. Records show that this type of robe has been worn since the 11th century in ancient kingdoms across West Africa. The robe is usually worn at special events such as naming ceremonies and weddings. The attire was once considered a symbol of wealth and high-status due to its expensive fabrics and intricate embroidery.

Cultural Context

Worn by a man.

Iconographic Meaning

The embroidery combines graphic elements common to the architecture and decorative arts of the Hausa. The quantity of cloth used makes a statement about the wealth of its owner, and the designs are meant to protect the person wearing the garment.

Specific Techniques

The Hausa baban riga would have been made by several men: from the braided motifs to the stitching of the cotton strips that create the fabric panel. Given the complexity of the embroidery, making this garment would have also taken several months.