Skirt Item Number: Sf958 from the MOA: University of British Columbia

Description

Skirt made of black fabric and gathered at the waist with hot pink piping at the hem and a multicoloured striped band for a waistband. There is an opening at the top of one seam with ties extending from the waistband. One horizontal pleat 20 cm above the hem. To the right of the seam that leads to the opening in the waistband, a piece of fabric has been added at the hem to extend the height of the existing fabric. The back left loom width is pieced together just above the hem.

History Of Use

Bayeta is made by males on the treadle loom and is used for garments that are cut to size and sewn, such as trousers, shirts, skirts and vests. The style, the construction and and the loom used are non-indigenous and derive from Spanish peasant tradition. Handspun sheep's wool is the traditional material, but synthetic yarns are now used. Black is the most common colour worn by women on a daily basis. For fiestas and special ceremonies, many skirts are worn layered. Unmarried girls sometimes pin the hem of the outer black skirt to the waist to show a red skirt worn underneath.

Cultural Context

everyday

Narrative

Bought from Gonzalo Yucra Huatta who spun, wove and sewed the skirt for his wife, Pelagia Quispe Cruz. He said it was almost new and so did not need washing, although there are some spots on it.

Specific Techniques

Balanced plain woven fabric made from sheep's wool yarns, z-spun singles. Waistband is warp-faced plain weave made from overtwisted synthetic yarns, z-spun and s-plied. Hem facing is commercial balanced weave cloth, perhaps cotton. 5 loom widths are cut and machine stitched together and the waist is gathered with 2 rows of running stitches. The waistband is hand sewn. Hem piping and facing are machine stitched.