Cloth Item Number: Sf915 from the MOA: University of British Columbia

Description

Cloth, rectangular, woven from red wool with three wider and two narrower bands of green and red geometric, fish, and bird figure motifs on off-white. Each band is edged with a series of narrow, brightly coloured stripes.The edge is finished with a multicoloured fringe.

History Of Use

Warp-faced fabrics with three or four selvedges are woven by women but the fabrics the techniques, structures and some of the motifs have pre-Conquest antecedents. This type of textile conveys the most information about an individual's ethnicity, sex, age, status and particular history. Are used by both sexes. Rectangular cloths are pinned to the shoulders or hips of men and women for some fiesta dances, for example, the 24th of June and the Pentecost.

Cultural Context

fiesta dancing

Narrative

Woven and used by Candelaria Cruz Machaca. One corner of the cloth is folded down and the truncated diamond shape is pinned or sewn to the shoulders.

Iconographic Meaning

The range of motifs refers to local geography and landmarks, ecology, fecundity as well as luck. The six part circle refers to the division of land into six sections on Taquile and the rotation of crops and fallow periods. The striated cross represents the raised furrows of a tilled field. The s-shaped reverse curve is generally said to be the boat port.

Specific Techniques

Weave structures are the following: 1-plain colour areas are warp faced plain weave. 2- figurative designs; complementary-warp weave with 3-span floats aligned in alternate pairs with an irregular (abbabaab) warping order (3/1 horizontal colour changes and diagonals of 2-span floats). 3- stripe with squares; float weave derived from turned 2/1 horizontal herringbone with floats forming squares.