Poncho Item Number: Sf982 from the MOA: University of British Columbia

Description

Poncho made of black woven wool with six thin red vertical stripes and a vertical neck slit with overcast edges. Composed of two complete loom widths with four selvedges which are sewn together with a flat figure eight stitch along one side except for the area of the neck slit. Two ends of a replied cord hang from the fabric near the neck slit.

History Of Use

Warp-faced fabrics with three or four selvedges are woven by women on the indigenous style loom, a staked-out horizontal ground loom, or an adjustable tension (body) loom. The technique and structure have pre-Conquest antecedents, and as in ancient times, the fabrics are used in their rectangular form without cutting or shaping. Ponchos are worn as garments by men with the neck slit vertical. They are also used to carry bulky or heavy cargo on the back by knotting 2 opposite corners across the chest. Ponchos are one of the major garments woven for men by their wives.

Specific Techniques

Plain colour areas or stripes are warp-faced plain weave.

Narrative

Woven by Pelagia Quispe Cruz for her husband, Gonzalo Yucra Huatta, who used it for over 6 months. The neck slit can be sewn closed with the replied cord when a solid cloth is needed for carrying cargo.

Cultural Context

men