Loom Item Number: Sf1018 a-g from the MOA: University of British Columbia

Description

Loom (part a-g) consisting of a partly woven belt with unwoven warps, attached shedding devices and accompanying wooden and bone tools. The symmetrically striped warp and belt section has three chevron bands flanked by rainbow colour stripes set against a dark red ground. There are cylindrical loom bars at each end; the bottom bar is part c. In the middle are three sticks with string heddles and a shed roll (part b). In addition, there is one stick with a flattened point and another straight (part d), round stick for rolling the cloth (part e). Two small skeins of blue yarn extend from each side of the woven web at the final row. There is a slightly smoothed bone pick (part f) and a length of brown cords (part g) is used to tie the bundle together.

History Of Use

Warp-faced fabric with three or four selvedges are woven by women but the fabrics are used by both sexes. The techniques, structures and some of the motifs have pre-Conquest antecedents. This type of textile conveys the most information about an individual's ethnicity, sex, age, status and particular history. Firm belts of this type are worn by women particularly during pregnacy and for 2 to 7 months afterwards. During pregnancy, they are bound tightly to keep the baby's head from growing too large and making the birth difficult. After birth, the heavy belt supports weakened muscles.

Specific Techniques

The commercial synthetic yarns are retwisted. The belt is woven to its finished dimensions on the continuously wound warp. The weave structure is a warp faced 2:2 twill.

Narrative

Silvia was making a kili chumpi or heavy belt for her pregnant sister Eufrasia. She stopped working on it when the baby was born dead. She makes belts for herself and for both her younger sisters, because according to Silvia, they do not know how to make their own.

Iconographic Meaning

Chevron design is called kili

Cultural Context

weaving