Jacket Item Number: Sf385 from the MOA: University of British Columbia

Description

Short black jacket with long sleeves and a half collar. The jacket is decorated with four coloured tassel-like ties in pink, green and yellow arranged on each side of the front opening and the sleeve hems are edged with coloured crochet. The lower jacket edge and collar have white facings.

History Of Use

Bayeta is a type of coarse cloth made on the treadle loom and is used for garments that are cut to size and sewn, such as trousers, shirts and vests. The style, the construction and the loom used are derived from Spanish peasant tradition. Handspun sheep's wool is the traditional material but synthetic yarns are now used as well. The chamarra is worn by men holding community positions when they are engaged in public functions or activities. It is also worn by bridegrooms and padrinos at weddings and by dancers at some fiestas. For most occasions it is worn normally with the arms in the sleeves. Jilakatas or traditional authorities wear their jackets with the yarn closures tied. The yarn tassels are called t'ikacha. A chamarra is sometimes worn across the shoulders, inside out with the white facings showing. The style of wearing the chamarra has changed through time. The grandfather of one Jilakata demonstrated 3 different ways of wearing it that were popular when he was young; across the buttocks with half a twist, across the chest and across the shoulders.

Cultural Context

official garment

Specific Techniques

Commercial synthetic yarns. Z spun and plied 2 s; balanced plain weave cloth, cut and assembled by machine stitching. Sleeve edges are crocheted. Front closures of yarn bunches are stitched through the fabric then knotted.

Narrative

Made and used by Augustin Quispe Mamani for serving as officer of the port in 1982. Subsequently used by 2 of his sons, Domingo and Faustino, for their weddings in July and August 1987. Sold by Augustin's widow, Candelaria Cruz Machaca, in September 1987.

Item History

What

Name
Jacket
Identification Number
Sf385
Type of Item
jacket
Material
synthetic fibre, cotton fibre ? and dye
Manufacturing Technique
woven, cut, sewn, crocheted and knotted
Overall
height 47.2 cm, width 146.3 cm

Who

Culture
Quechua
Creator
Agustin Quispe Mamani (Maker)
Field Collector
Mary Frame
Previous Owner
Mary Frame
Received from
Mary Frame (Seller) and Museum of Anthropology Shop Volunteers (Funding source)

Where

Holding Institution
MOA: University of British Columbia
Made in
Taquile, Puno, Peru

When

Creation Date
between 1981 and 1982
Collection Date
during 1987
Ownership Date
before November 3, 1987
Acquisition Date
on November 3, 1987

Other

Item Classes
textiles
Condition
good
Accession Number
1274/0013