Head Cloth Item Number: 831/2 b from the MOA: University of British Columbia

Description

A relatively square cloth piece that has four main wide bands, each consisting of a light blue and white pattern with a plain thin dark blue band in between them and at each side. Has a very subtle floral pattern embossed overall. Composed of two pieces sewn together lengthwise.

History Of Use

Indigo head scarves are a type of cloth found among the Wolof people of northern Senegal, known as “musooru cuub”. From the 19th century, the European transatlantic slave trade and French colonization of the region introduced indigo-dyed cotton cloths imported from India. Known as “guinées”, indigo dye was said to protect from sun rays, repel mosquitoes and represented a sign of prosperity. It became an influential exchange currency in the acacia gum trade along the Senegal River, particularly through the port city of Ndar (Saint Louis or San Louis). Today, stitched resist indigo-dyed cloth is used as clothing, for head scarves but also shawls and pagnes (loincloths).

Specific Techniques

Before dyeing the cloth in indigo, narrow strips are cut up for patterning and later cut away with a sharp blade so as to leave designs on a blue background. One common method is to stitch the cloth so that it compresses and withstands the dye, preventing the dye from reaching the cloth. Raphia threads are also used to prevent the cloth from breaking when tightened after dyeing.