Blouse Front Panel Item Number: 1098/6 from the MOA: University of British Columbia

Description

Embroidered textile panel for a blouse front. The embroidery is worked on gray-green cotton textile, with predominantly red and purple/mauve geometric designs and mirrorwork. The designs are outlined in black and orange. The embroidery is underlined with bright pink block printed cotton gauze. A strip of bright green embroidered cotton textile (15.8 cm wide) is sewn to the lower edge; the colours of this strip, as well as the style of embroidery, are different from those used on the upper portion of the textile.

History Of Use

A textile that is embroidered in this manner is used to make a backless blouse, similar to 1098/4, 1098/5, 1098/7 and 1098/9. An embroidered blouse front like this one is called a “greban” in Threadlines Pakistan, but the term “gaj” is used in Colours of the Indus (see References). “Gaj” is also spelled “guj” in the literature. The hang tag that was attached to the textile at the time it was purchased in Pakistan calls it a “greban.”

Specific Techniques

satin stitch; buttonhole stitch; interlacing stitch; stem stitch

Narrative

This textile was purchased by William McLennan at Threadlines Gallery in Islamabad, Pakistan, in 1985 while he was on assignment for the Museum of Anthropology, which had a contract with the administration of Expo ‘86 to set up the Pakistan pavillion at the fair. The Museum purchased it, along with the other items in the 1098 accession, from McLennan in 1986.