Skirt

Item number Ed1.326 from the MOA: University of British Columbia.

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Description

Skirt of greenish gold sheer silk with a peacock feather motif in gray. The skirt is made of two panels and open at the back where the right panel overlaps the left. The skirt panels are pleated and inserted into a band of unbleached cotton. The upper edge of the band is scalloped with the points of the scallops meeting the ends of two shoulder straps of the same material. The band opens at the front and the top of the seam is left unstitched. The inside of the skirt is gray and unlined.

History Of Use

Such extravagant fabrics were favoured in the postwar years for formal wear. “No-bang-ju” was the sheerest silk available. The straps attached to the curved shape of the skirt band were innovations introduced after the opening of Korea to the outside world in the late 19th century, replacing the simple waistband with long ties of the traditional “Chi-ma”. The new style was considered to be more modest, as it covered the breasts, and was more comfortable.

Specific Techniques

The fabric was machine-woven as double cloth, with a separate green outer layer and grey inner layer, and the grey woven with the green to form the motifs of peacocks and feathers. The garment is machine sewn except for the stitches attaching the band, which are done by hand so as to be invisible on the outside.

Narrative

Most of the clothing in the J. McRee Elrod Collection was made for him and his family by friends while they were living in Korea, much of it by Kim, Sung Sook. She and her family lived cooperatively in the same house as the Elrod family. While they were there, the Elrods preferred to wear Korean clothing on very cold days and for social occasions. They found it to be more comfortable than western clothing in cold weather, as public buildings were unheated in the period immediately following the Korean War. It also was more comfortable for floor seating in Korean homes, and easier to store with limited furniture than western clothing. The children’s clothing was worn by their children Mark and Lona.