Underwear Item Number: N3.5 from the MOA: University of British Columbia
Description
Under-trousers of lightweight fine white ramie. Pants are angled out from the waistband to the ankles. Body of pants is pleated onto a wide waistband, opening at the back. At each side of the waistband opening is attached a narrower long tie. Pleats face towards centre, front and back. Back opening extends down the inside of each leg to about the knee.
History Of Use
Such under-trousers would have been worn by a small girl as her innermost layer of underwear. Such lightweight underwear most likely was worn in summer, but it also could have been winter underwear. Ramie is effective for absorbing perspiration. Underwear previously had a crotch slit that continued to the front, but this was later simplified during the modernization of Korea and the slit limited to the back. Later, shoulder straps were added. More elaborated underwear had additional flaps at the crotch to ensure that the skin was covered, which was very important during the Chosun Dynasty. Ordinary people wore more simple underwear, the construction of which was not elaborated. Only women’s and girl’s under-trousers had the slit; men’s did not. Men also did not wear as many layers of underwear as women did. Underwear of this kind could have been worn by a child of any class. It likely was made at home. Underwear was and is boiled as part of the laundry process. Women wore the following layers of lower-body underwear: loincloth that passed between the legs and fastened front and back to a waistband (Da-ri-sok-got);, wide, straight-legged under-trousers with a side opening with ties as well as a crotch slit with flaps (Sok-sok-got); back- or side-opening under-trousers tapering to the ankles, with flaps at the opening (Sok-ba-ji); wide , straight-legged under-trousers with crotch slit and flaps (Dan-sok-got); under-skirt (Sok-chima); and outer skirt (Chima). Many layers of underwear were important to add bulk for elegance, and to protect their virginity. Underwear was tied below the wearer’s breasts, and extended to the back of her foot. Prostitutes might intentionally show their ankles.
Specific Techniques
Sewn entirely by hand. The ties were sewn inside-out and then turned right-side out, concealing the seam. The centre seam was sewn with running stitches, with the raw edges folded inside. The hem was sewn with invisible stitches. The ties were probably pasted to preserve their shape.
Item History
- Made in Korea before 1939
- Collected between 1899 and 1939
- Owned by Marion Stephan before August 1964
- Received from Marion Stephan (Donor) during August 1964
What
Who
- Culture
- Korean
- Previous Owner
- Marion Stephan
- Received from
- Marion Stephan (Donor)
Where
- Holding Institution
- MOA: University of British Columbia
- Made in
- Korea
When
- Creation Date
- before 1939
- Collection Date
- between 1899 and 1939
- Ownership Date
- before August 1964
- Acquisition Date
- during August 1964
Other
- Item Classes
- textiles
- Condition
- fair
- Accession Number
- 0113/0079