Robe Item Number: 2798/1 from the MOA: University of British Columbia

Description

Knee-length lime green robe with long sleeves has looped buttoning from the neck across upper chest to below one arm and down the side. Bordering the entire robe , including sleeve cuffs, are wide panels of black and blue fabric decorated with colourful needle worked cutouts, wavy lengths of yellow cording, blue and green fabric overlay, ribbons of gold and silver threads, and a red trim. The back is covered with overlapping feather shapes of black, brown and blue fabric, each trimmed in blue, yellow or red and with needle worked exotic bird or flower design in the centre. There is a one piece lining of unbleached cotton.

History Of Use

Used by the maker in performances, but based in part on a traditional Nanai wedding dress.

Iconographic Meaning

The Nanai believe the souls of unborn children reside in birds until they are ready to take human form, and by representing them on a wedding dress the bride would call in the children she wished to bear. The embroidery around the neck, hem, wrists and back was meant to protect the wearer from evil spirits.

Specific Techniques

The embroidery and applique on this robe were mainly done with threads imported from China, however the design is based on traditional robes previously made in fishskin and fur applique. The maker was well versed in Nanai traditional embroidery arts and designs, however in the early 1990s there was a shortage of fabrics available which caused her to choose non-traditional colours and some non-traditional decorations for this robe.

Narrative

Worn by Nina Beldi while perfoming in Whitehorse in 1992. Purchased by the donor later, in 1992, from Beldi at her home on Sakhalin Island.