Jacket Item Number: 330/2 from the MOA: University of British Columbia
Short jacket with striped sleeves. The jacket is made of shiny white nylon fabric with a woven pattern of floral roundels. The centre opening has front panels that overlap to the right when tied closed with two long red ribbon ties. The front edges have panels extending down from the mid-point of the outer facing made of the same white fabric. The seam is delineated with red piping. The lower point of the left panel is appliquéd with a red heart shape.The garment has a deep V neck outlined with an appliquéd red facing. The left outer facing is rounded at the lower edge, while that on the right is straight and projects beyond the front edge of the garment. There is a narrow outer facing or collar of white paper covered with sheer fabric. A narrow green inside tie is attached to that point, with the corresponding tie attached to the left underarm seam on the inside. There is a seam at the centre back of the garment. The long sleeves are deeply inset and are made of strips of patterned nylon fabric forming stripes in six different colours parallel to the body of the jacket. The stripe closest to the body of the garment is red and is angled outward at the bottom to form an underarm panel. The inner lining is white nylon mesh with an interfacing of coarser nylon mesh.
Such “Jo-go-ri”, made of synthetic fabrics and with very rounded rainbow “saek-dong” sleeves, were worn by girls and women on festivals, birthdays of elders, and other special occasions in the late 1960s-1970s. A girl might wear such clothing on her first birthday. By this time the rainbow “saek-dong” sleeves were often made of fabric woven in stripes, rather than being pieced as they had been previously. The sleeves were set in with straight seams without piping, rather than rounded seams with piping, as had been characteristic of the previous decade. Such garments, with skirts of the same synthetic material, were made for one-time use and photography on special occasions. The “Jo-go-ri” at that time were shorter than those worn in the previous decade, with short underarm seams angled inward, and had longer ribbon ties and narrower outer facings. The inner ties were retained for decency, as the “Jo-go-ri” were so short. In the 1970s the V neck was deeply cut to show the wearer’s cleavage. The sleeves were very rounded and were deeply inset to show off more of the rainbow-striped fabric, which was used to the limit at that time. Graceful curves, like those at the lower edge of this garment, are important in Korean aesthetics and reflected in various forms, including architecture. By the late 1960s, Korean people generally wore simple clothing so that they could work more efficiently. During the 18 years that Park, Chong-hee was president, the transformation of South Korea from an agricultural country to an industrial one was accomplished, and people were urged to work hard. In compensation, people wore elaborate clothing on special occasions. Clothing of this kind was made in markets, and the relatively rough finishing, with the fabrics folded inside at the seams, is typical of that work.
The garment is machine sewn except for the stitches attaching the white collar, which are done by hand, and possibly the stitches attaching the facing.