Coat

Item number 984/5 from the MOA: University of British Columbia.

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Description

Long coat with both the outer layer and lining made of fine white cotton fabric. The coat is made of ten flared vertical panels. It overlaps to the right, with two long, wide ribbons of the same fabric for ties. The coat is secured on the inside with shorter, narrow ties of the same material, positioned at the same level. When closed, the overlap forms a V neck edged with a stiff collar covered with shiny white fabric patterned with characters. The ribbon ties are centred at the lower ends of inner and outer facings with rounded edges. The sleeves are attached with a vertical seam somewhat beyond the shoulder and have a lower seam shaped in a convex curve, narrowing to the wrist. There is a small underarm reinforcement on each side, with an additional rectangular reinforcement or repair in the left underarm. At waist level there are openings at each side. All seams are concealed.

History Of Use

Such coats were worn by rural intellectuals, such as teachers, in the 1950s. Medium-weight lined coats were for spring and fall wear. The sleeves of the coat “Doo-ru-ma-gui” were less rounded than those of the jacket, “Jo-go-ri, worn underneath. The side slits gave the wearer access to objects attached to clothing worn underneath. Collars could be made at home if the wearer wanted them to be special, or they could be bought in markets. Fabric was very precious then, so repairs were made and reinforcements used.

Specific Techniques

Facings were ironed, pasted, and sewn in place. Hem and ribbons were hand-sewn, and hand-sewn in place. All seams are concealed, which was achieved by sewing the garment inside-out, and then reversing it.