Shoes Item Number: 984/7 a-b from the MOA: University of British Columbia

Description

Pair of women’s shoes made of smooth black leather, lined with dark brown leather. The shoes have low sides but have a rounded extension up over the heel. The toe area is curved upwards and comes to a point. There is a central vertical seam closing the toe area, and a vertical seam at the heel, both with stitches concealed on the inside. The shoes are open along almost their entire length except for a small area over the toes. The opening is finished with narrow piping of the same material. The uppers are stitched to the soles with small even stitches of heavy thread. The rigid soles are formed of multiple layers of leather and taper in slightly except at the heel, which is slightly raised. The soles are covered with rows of iron hobnails except for the area under the arch.

History Of Use

Such shoes were worn outdoors in rainy weather by women in the late Chosun Dynasty and were used by women of a higher social class than those who wore wooden rain shoes. These shoes were made by specialists who were organized into a guild. Making them was very hard work.

Iconographic Meaning

The rounded V shape of the opening over the toes, and their narrow width, indicate that these shoes were for a woman.

Specific Techniques

The soles are made of numerous layers of leather stitched together with cotton thread. They were oiled with tung oil to make them water-repellent, and the hobnails kept the wearer from slipping or becoming stuck in mud. The leather lining also helped to make them waterproof, as did the multiple layers of leather making up the sole.