Backless Blouse Item Number: 1098/9 from the MOA: University of British Columbia

Description

Woman’s or child’s backless blouse made from a large embroidered panel which forms the entire front of the blouse. There is a vertical neck opening at the centre front, bound with pale grey-green cotton textile; the blouse fastens at the centre back neckline with ties made of cotton textile (one made of printed textile and one plain). Square front shoulder yokes are decorated with mirror and pompoms; diamond-shaped geometric forms are worked in purple, off-white and red silk thread. The same designs also appear below the yoke, forming a cross shape, bordered with a black braid made from thick bundles of thread which have been couched onto the surface. The bottom portion of the blouse is embellished with scattered, multi-coloured, embroidered geometric forms and mirrorwork. The hem and sides are bordered with plain green and plain red cotton textile. The sleeves are bordered with red and gold rayon or silk brocade and plain green cotton textile. On the back, separate, small shoulder yokes made from panels of red cotton broadcloth are sewn at the shoulders and at the underarms, forming close-fitting, abbreviated sleeves. The embroidery is underlined with grey cotton gauze.

History Of Use

Backless blouses are worn with a long, gathered skirt or baggy pants as part of the everyday or festive costume. A veil is worn over the head and shoulders, covering the back.

Specific Techniques

satin stitch; couching stitch; buttonhole stitch; fly stitch

Narrative

This blouse was purchased by William McLennan at Threadlines Gallery in Islamabad, Pakistan, in 1985 while he was on assignment for the Museum of Anthropology, which had a contract with the administration of Expo ‘86 to set up the Pakistan pavilion at the fair. The Museum purchased it, along with the other items in the 1098 accession, from McLennan in 1986.