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Narrative

The hat belonged to Per Utsi, from the town of Porjus. He was a member of the Karesuando Sami.

Description

Man's hat. Trimmed with a band of fur, bands of rickrack and appliqued fabric; multi-coloured fabric streamers at centre back. The dark blue four-pointed crown is edged in red. Lined with off-white, red and blue cotton flannelette. Points of the crown are stiffened with an unseen material (possibly the spines of large feathers?).

Iconographic Meaning

The four points of the hat represent the four winds. A Sami legend tells how the four winds used to blow from all directions at the same time, until a wise man suggested that each take a turn at being the most powerful. Since then, Sami men have worn four wind hats, called čiehgahpir.

Cultural Context

The Sami homelands (Sapmi) cover northern Scandinavia and northeastern Russia. Some Sami are coastal dwellers, living year-round in small communities as fishers. Many are transient reindeer herders, moving their herds seasonally between coastal and mountain pastures.

History Of Use

Sami clothing, made predominantly of blue felt, is decorated with multi-coloured, geometrically cut pieces of cloth, rickrack and braid designs specific to families and regional groups that allow people to distinguish relatives and strangers at a distance. Men's hats differ from women's both in form and pattern, whereas there is less difference between the sexes in other items of Sami clothing, such as the tunic or shoes.

Specific Techniques

Four Winds hats are made from boiled felt and lined with down.