Necklace Item Number: Ab326 b from the MOA: University of British Columbia
Description
Open weave band of beading that has a top rim in red and a bottom rim in blue, and a central panel in white zigzag formation. A pink beaded rectangular panel with a bottom rim in red hangs from one of the sides of the necklace near the loop and bead closure.
History Of Use
Iqabane or incwadi (plural izincwadi), 'tab' necklace. Young women in Zulu society design beadwork to communicate their feelings and desires to suitors to avoid the discomfort of direct communication. To begin, a single string of white beads, ucu, are given to show desire and availability. Once a suitor has established interest, they are then given izincwadi as tokens of affection and status. Glass beads and beadwork have been present in South Africa since the turn of the 1st century. Initially they were reserved solely for the king, his high-ranking officials, and the women of the court, and it wasn't until the middle of the 20th century that tab-style necklaces became common across South Africa.
Specific Techniques
Izincwadi are made by combining two beading techniques: the multiple strand method and the beadfabric method. The multiple strand method involves linking together two or more strands of beads. The beadfabric method is described as "not woven, but sewn".
Iconographic Meaning
Each colour in Zulu beadwork is associated with a traditional proverb, allowing for a translation of meaning; the specifics of the message are known only to the maker. When placed sequentially at the top of a necklace, red and white beads signify a “high blood pressure” of love, which expresses longing. Blue beads say “heaven is my witness, I request you marry me,” expressing the bond between the maker and recipient. The panel of pink comprising most of the tab represents prosperity. When “translated” alongside the accents of red and white, it likely means the maker of the necklace was hopeful for a prosperous future with whomever she gifted the necklace to.
Item History
- Made in South Africa between 1900 and 1950
- Owned by B.C. Provincial Museum before November 17, 1977
- Received from B.C. Provincial Museum (Transferring institution) on November 17, 1977
What
Who
- Culture
- Zulu
- Previous Owner
- B.C. Provincial Museum
- Received from
- B.C. Provincial Museum (Transferring institution)
Where
- Holding Institution
- MOA: University of British Columbia
- Made in
- South Africa
When
- Creation Date
- between 1900 and 1950
- Ownership Date
- before November 17, 1977
- Acquisition Date
- on November 17, 1977
Other
- Item Classes
- beadwork
- Condition
- good
- Accession Number
- 0424/0026 b