Cape Item Number: M4.50 from the MOA: University of British Columbia

Description

Woman's mantle. Embroidered yellow cape with centre opening, side slits and fringe. The overall motif is various sizes of bouquets in maroon and green on a yellow ground. Around the neck is a band with a diamond motif in maroon, red and green. Edging the centre opening and the hem is a three-prong motif in maroon and green. Two tapered sleeve-like pieces of fabric extend down the back from the shoulders and are joined by a rectangular piece. Black fringes hang from the ends of these and the rectangle. Hanging from the bottom hem is an alternating black and maroon fringe. The inside lining is maroon silk.

History Of Use

This chyrpy is from the Tekke tribe. It is worn like a shawl, draped over the woman’s tall coif of hair. The vestigial sleeves, left hanging, form embroidered bands at the back of the mantle.

Iconographic Meaning

The bouquets of tulips symbolize abundance and fertility. The bright yellow indicates this garment would have been worn by a middle-aged married woman.

Specific Techniques

The designs were done with the kesdi technique, lacing and chain stitch embroidery.

Item History

What

Name
Cape
Identification Number
M4.50
Type of Item
cape
Material
silk fibre
Manufacturing Technique
embroidered and fringed
Overall
height 124.0 cm, width 80.0 cm

Who

Culture
Turkmen
Previous Owner
Universal Art Gallery
Received from
Leon & Thea Koerner Foundation (Funding source) and Universal Art Gallery (Seller)

Where

Holding Institution
MOA: University of British Columbia
Made in
Turkmenistan

When

Creation Date
between 1900 and 1960
Ownership Date
before March 1960
Acquisition Date
during March 1960

Other

Item Classes
textiles
Condition
good
Current Location
Case 108
Accession Number
0024/0009