Dress Panel Textile Item Number: 1201/30 from the MOA: University of British Columbia

Description

Densely embroidered square textile, stitched overall with meandering patterns worked in orange thread in chain stitch on a background of purple silk or cotton textile. The design field is divided into four equally sized squares, separated from one another with rows of narrow gold metallic braid. The textile is embellished with five large (4 cm) ornamental discs, made from several layers of black cotton textile, topped with a layer of red cotton textile and embellished with white cowrie shells, blue glass beads and white shell buttons; one of these discs is located at the centre of each of the four sides of the textile, and there is one in the centre. The textile is edged with blue and white glass beading on all four sides. The embroidery is backed with a layer of dark red cotton textile.

History Of Use

Intended to be sewn onto the centre front of a dress bodice.

Narrative

Purchased from Alan Davidson when his Calgary import store, Terlingua, was liquidating its stock prior to closing.

Iconographic Meaning

The ornamental discs, called ‘dress flowers’ (gul-i-peron), are emblems of good fortune. Their use is wide-spread in the area and have been found in burials sites dating before 400 B.C.