Ornament Item Number: K5.76 from the MOA: University of British Columbia
Description
Beaded collar-like necklace. Open net-like design in a circular formation. Beaded with bands of pink, navy blue, and light blue with two bands of white. Has an angle-cut opaque white button at one end.
History Of Use
In Xhosa society, people are ranked in the social hierarchy in ten year increments, in addition to their sex. Young, uninitiated girls, and married or working women are identified by differing dress and adornment. Icanci are worn almost exclusively by older, married and highly-regarded women as both a fashion statement and a sign of status. These women work in mielie crop cultivation, and because these crops are deemed important to society the women tending to these crops are treated with admiration. The colour combination most admired is navy, black, and white.
Specific Techniques
Icanci are strung by women using an open weave and a scalloped edge threading technique called ukuhlahla. The open weave, sometimes called a “lazy stitch” by Xhosa beaders, links as many as twelve beads to a material other than the base. This allows for larger beaded pieces to be made more intricately with fewer beads.
Item History
- Made in South Africa
- Owned by Hampton House Antique Shop before March 1960
- Received from Hampton House Antique Shop (Seller) and Unknown (Funding source) during March 1960
What
Who
- Culture
- Xhosa
- Previous Owner
- Hampton House Antique Shop
- Received from
- Hampton House Antique Shop (Seller) and Unknown (Funding source)
Where
- Holding Institution
- MOA: University of British Columbia
- Made in
- South Africa
When
- Ownership Date
- before March 1960
- Acquisition Date
- during March 1960
Other
- Item Classes
- beadwork
- Condition
- good
- Current Location
- Case 102
- Accession Number
- 1809/0007