Button Blanket Item Number: A3730 from the MOA: University of British Columbia

Description

Button blanket made of a large blue wool blanket. Black band at each end, and a wide red woolen flannel border sewn to both sides and across the top, with a section cut out at the neck and inserted with dark blue and red cotton. Another wide red flannel band is sewn from top to bottom on each side, along the edge of the blanket's black band. This whole border design section is heavily decorated with button designs. The main crest design is a red flannel tree of life design. There is a manufacturer's stamp mark on the bottom of the red flannel border.

History Of Use

The traditional crest-style button blanket ceremonial robe proclaims hereditary rights, obligations, and powers through the depiction and display of family crests. The design becomes the property of the family and cannot be copied. The documentation for each crest is known and recited at feasts where those attending verify its prerogatives and obligations. Before Europeans introduced manufactured cloth to the coast in the 1700s, the indigenous peoples made their ceremonial robes from animal hides. Button blankets were used increasingly from the latter part of the 19th century among the coastal nations, from northern Vancouver Island to the Alaska Panhandle.

Cultural Context

ceremonial

Specific Techniques

For contemporary blankets, the design is applied to a template which is used to cut out the applique material. Women sew the robes. The tree of life design was cut in 7 sections, sewn together, and then appliqued onto the background blanket material and decorated with buttons or sequins.

Iconographic Meaning

Emblems or crests distinguish different social groups (lineages, phratries, or moieties) and symbolize their privileges. They can be shown on any material possessions, such as totem poles or robes, and each group owns the right to display specific crests. Within each group, families or individuals have the right to show the general crests is specific ways. According to Simon Dick, the tree of life design is one of the predominant crests of the Kwakwaka'wakw. It is shared with different families, and no particular village has tried to take responsibility for the origin of the crest.

Item History

What

Name
Button Blanket
Identification Number
A3730
Type of Item
blanket
Material
shell, bone ?, cotton fibre, wool fibre and dye
Manufacturing Technique
cut and sewn
Overall
height 133.0 cm, width 190.0 cm

Who

Culture
Kwakwaka'wakw
Previous Owner
Alfred Dawson
Received from
Alfred Dawson (Seller) and H. R. MacMillan (Funding source)

Where

Holding Institution
MOA: University of British Columbia
Made in
British Columbia, Canada
Collected in
Kingcome Inlet, British Columbia, Canada and Ukwanalis, British Columbia, Canada

When

Ownership Date
before January 14, 1953
Acquisition Date
on January 14, 1953

Other

Item Classes
textiles
Condition
fair
Accession Number
1857/0003