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Specific Techniques

Warp-ikat technique; shiny surface created with an egg glaze?

Narrative

Joanna Staniszkis purchased this garment and most others in the 3231 accession in Istanbul, shortly after the dissolution of the USSR; the robes had been previously stored in trunks for a considerable length of time.

Description

Man’s full-length, A-line, colourful, red, yellow and off-white ikat tunic or gown, with wide, straight sleeves and straight 36 cm slit at the centre front neck opening. A small stand-up collar has been roughly attached at the centre back. Warp ikat textile, with silk warp, cotton weft. Roughly made and irregularly patched together. Left underarm has been patched with a piece of dark purple cotton textile. Unlined. Hem is faced with strips of green and white plaid cotton textile. A blue stripe on the selvage shows through on some seams.

History Of Use

This type of garment would have been worn with wide trousers under ikat robes, and were worn by men, women and children of various cultures. The colourful printed cotton textiles which were typically used to line robes made in Central Asia were manufactured in Russia for the Central Asian market, as was the striped bias-cut cotton textile that was used as facings on all the edges (called the lapse). Following the Russian Revolution, the workshops that made ikat textiles like this one, which had been organized around family and social networks, were disbanded by the Soviet government, replaced by collective practices in factories. Eventually the making and wearing of ikat clothing disappeared.