Dress Item Number: 3289/59 a-b from the MOA: University of British Columbia

Description

Two part dress. The two parts are a long dress (part a) and an underskirt (part b) with an open weave or lace fringe at the bottom. The fabric is a synthetic-cotton blend. The dress is made from a single panel of fabric, sewn together on the sides with small armholes near the fold. The hem and neckline are stitched in pink. The bib open weave background colour is green with purple, red, blue, yellow, pink diamond design. This design is repeated at the hem of the dress and underskirt. The skirt has ties at the waist.

History Of Use

Yucatecan traditional huipile. Huipiles with this style of embroidery are made by creating stitches on top of an unravelled or frayed material. This technique is thought to derive from pre-Hispanic textile production styles and is unique to Yucatan. Due to a number of economic and cultural factors, this practice is in danger of extinction. These used to be made of plain natural cotton. They are now often made of synthetic cotton blend. They are always white or cream. The bib around the neck is commonly embroidered, as is the hem.

Iconographic Meaning

The flower depicted is the xmanikte, which can be translated from Maya as the eternal flower. The xmanikte resembles a quatrefoil in that it has four corners and a central point. This style resembles the Maya four directional world order that is also expressed in huipiles from other Maya speaking areas such as Guatemala. Certain examples of this design can be associated with the those recorded on ancient Maya sculpture, such as Lady K’abal Xook’s huipil in Yaxchilan lintel 24.