Belt Item Number: 3486/114 from the MOA: University of British Columbia

Description

Woven belt (chumpi) in wool, finished on one end with braids that are sewn together and tied with off-white yarn. The belt has a repeating geometric pattern of serrated diamonds in alternating sections of deep brown and clay red against a natural off-white background. A thin border of light brown and deep brown span the top and bottom edges of the belt.

History Of Use

Belts of different types are used by men, women, and children, and some have special names. Most belts are called chumpi (Quechua) or cinterone (Spanish). Some belts are associated with pregnant women and their babies, where they are used to fasten the swaddling cloths around the infant. Belts for children are usually smaller in size. In some areas, very wide belts are worn with a stiff underbelt, which acts as a back support. Belts in Andean villages are usually made on a continuous warp and the last few inches are finished by braiding. A wide variety of techniques are used to pattern the belts. The imagery woven on belts is usually drawn from a set of geometric and figurative icons that are combined in ways that are distinctive of a particular community.

Narrative

Purchased by the donor in 2011 from the Center for Traditional Textiles in Cuzco.

Specific Techniques

Woven in a 3-colour complementary warp weave that is reversible, “pebble” weave variant. Pebble weave is called "pata pallay" and the reversible technique is called "doble cara" (double-faced) by the weavers. The yarns are handspun and the red dye is likely from cochineal.