Belt Item Number: 3486/119 from the MOA: University of British Columbia

Description

Long woven belt (chumpi) finished on both ends in braids that are fastened together by a plied tie in cobalt blue and red. The design of the belt known as a 'sara' (corn) motif features 3 decorative bands of repeating paired isosceles triangles in green and red with the central band in yellow and black. A solid cobalt blue border appears along the top and bottom edges.

History Of Use

Belts of different types are used by men, women, and children, and some have special names. Most belts are called chumpi (Quechua) or cinterone (Spanish). Some belts are associated with pregnant women and their babies, where they are used to fasten the swaddling cloths around the infant. Belts for children are usually smaller in size. In some areas, very wide belts are worn with a stiff underbelt, which acts as a back support. Belts in Andean villages are usually made on a continuous warp and the last few inches are finished by braiding. A wide variety of techniques are used to pattern the belts. The imagery woven on belts is usually drawn from a set of geometric and figurative icons that are combined in ways that are distinctive of a particular community.

Narrative

Purchased by the donor from the maker in Lima in 2002, when the maker came to Lima to demonstrate weaving at a textile conference.

Iconographic Meaning

The design is called “sara” (corn) in the very conservative community where it is made. The image has been traced back to Inca times by several researchers, where the corn motif was worn by Inca royalty during the performance of the corn dance by women.

Specific Techniques

Woven in a complementary warp weave with 3-span floats in alternate alignment, “intermesh” weave variant. The side selvedges are woven in one-weft double-cloth, which makes tubular edges.