Shawl Item Number: 3486/140 from the MOA: University of British Columbia
Women's shoulder shawl (lliklla) composed of two 4-selvedge cloths that are sewn together on a long edge. Each panel has two wide patterned bands seperated by solid bands in shades of red, beige, and grey. The dominant patterns are variations of diamonds and flowers. Vibrant yarn is embroidered onto the surface of the central red and off-white decorative bands replicating the diamond (cocha) and flower (papa tika) motifs in cobalt blue, yellow, mint green, yellow, and hot pink. Plain narrow bands in shades of grey, green, red, off-white, and pink border the top and bottom edges.
A lliklla (Quechua) or manta (Spanish) is worn as a shawl that is fastened around the shoulders with a pin, but it can also be worn as a cloth for carrying things on the back. Women’s llikllas are smaller in this region than in many parts of the province of Cuzco.
The wide patterned bands are woven in a supplementary warp weave, a technique that the weavers call “ley". The chevron pattern along the outer edges is produced by alternating the twist of the wraps. The less usual twist (Z-plied) is called loq'e, which means "something different"; such yarns are thought to have magical or curative properties.
Purchased by the donor in the Pisac market in 1982.
Diamonds are often called cocha (lakes) and the flowers are often papa tika (potato flowers).