Fur-lined Vest Item Number: Ed1.329 from the MOA: University of British Columbia

Description

Short vest made of red silk brocade patterned with flowers that look like chrysanthemums and apricot blossoms in shades of grey, light blue-green and green. The vest is edged with black piping and white rabbit fur, and lined with white rabbit fur. The front edges are angled in to meet at the lower centre front. The neckline is a deep V curving up into points at the centre front. It is edged with a narrow facing of white fabric woven in a geometric pattern, sewn on top of an outer facing with rounded lower corners, made of the same red fabric and with the pattern aligned. Small panels of the same fabric are inserted under the arms.

History Of Use

Such vests reflect western influence on Korean clothing, as they are not an old traditional Korean concept. Women’s and girls’ vests are shorter than those worn by men and boys, as their upper garments “Jo-go-ri” are also shorter. The open neckline allows the ribbon tie of the wearer’s upper garment “Jo-go-ri” to project. Women’s vests are distinguished from men’s in that the outer facing has rounded lower corners. Fur-lined vests were and are worn in winter by women of every social class who could afford the materials, which would exclude women of the lower class and servants.

Specific Techniques

The garment was sewn inside out with the proper right underarm seam being sewn last. Invisible sewing was used throughout, including that attaching the fur.

Iconographic Meaning

The Japanese apricot flower and chrysanthemum are among those painted by the official class, “Yangban”, and thus symbolize that class. The images in black are symbols of long life.

Narrative

Most of the clothing in the J. McRee Elrod Collection was made for him and his family by friends while they were living in Korea, much of it by Kim, Sung Sook. She and her family lived cooperatively in the same house as the Elrod family. While they were there, the Elrods preferred to wear Korean clothing on very cold days and for social occasions. They found it to be more comfortable than western clothing in cold weather, as public buildings were unheated in the period immediately following the Korean War. It also was more comfortable for floor seating in Korean homes, and easier to store with limited furniture than western clothing. The children’s clothing was worn by their children Mark and Lona.

Item History

What

Name
Fur-lined Vest
Identification Number
Ed1.329
Type of Item
vest
Material
rayon fibre, dye, rabbit skin, paste adhesive and paper
Manufacturing Technique
reversed, tanned, spun, dyed, woven, cut, sewn and pasted
Overall
height 36.0 cm, width 50.0 cm

Who

Culture
Korean
Creator
Sung Sook Kim (Maker)
Previous Owner
Norma Elrod and J. McRee Elrod
Received from
J. McRee Elrod (Donor)

Where

Holding Institution
MOA: University of British Columbia
Made in
Seoul, Korea

When

Creation Date
between 1955 and 1960
Collection Date
between 1955 and 1960
Ownership Date
before October 13, 1976
Acquisition Date
on October 13, 1976

Other

Item Classes
textiles
Condition
good
Accession Number
0335/0010