Jacket Item Number: Ed1.321 from the MOA: University of British Columbia

Description

Gold-coloured satin jacket, or blouse. The centre opening has front panels that overlap to the right when tied closed with two long wide ribbon ties. The left outer facing is rounded at the lower edge, while the right is straight and projects beyond the front edge. The neck is finished with a narrow facing or collar of white cloth-covered paper. The long sleeves are set in with a straight seam and a convex curve on the lower edge, narrowing to the wrist. Thin white inner ties are sewn to the right inner facing and the left underarm seam. The inner lining is loosely woven off-white rayon.

History Of Use

Jeogori made of extravagant fabrics were favoured in the postwar period, to be worn as formal wear. Plain, shiny silk or silk-like rayon called “gong-dan” was very popular then. During the 1950s the underarm seams were longer than those worn both previously and later, and the garment as a whole was wider, making it more comfortable. Formal wear, however, retained the shorter underarm seams and shorter length. The curve at the lower edge of the sleeve was deeply rounded at this time. Graceful curves, like those at the lower edge of this garment, are important in Korean aesthetics and reflected in various forms, including architecture.

Specific Techniques

The garment is machine sewn except for the stitches attaching the white collar, which are done by hand.

Narrative

Most of the clothing in the J. McRee Elrod Collection was made for him and his family by friends while they were living in Korea, much of it by Kim, Sung Sook. She and her family lived cooperatively in the same house as the Elrod family. While they were there, the Elrods preferred to wear Korean clothing on very cold days and for social occasions. They found it to be more comfortable than western clothing in cold weather, as public buildings were unheated in the period immediately following the Korean War. It also was more comfortable for floor seating in Korean homes, and easier to store with limited furniture than western clothing. The children’s clothing was worn by their children Mark and Lona.