Necklace Item Number: K5.157 from the MOA: University of British Columbia

Description

U-shaped band embellished with alternating sections of black and red beads several by light brown lines. There are two loops at each end of the necklace. Beads are strung on string, and then wound around the rolled fabric tube.

History Of Use

Head or neck piece (umgingqo, plural imigingqo) worn my men and women. In the early 20th century beaded items were primarily used for courting Zulu adults, and to display wealth and social standing. Though a unisex accessory, imigingqo are only made by women who can give them as a gift to a male suitor, as a means to regulate the relationships between man and woman. Alternatively, a woman can opt to wear the umgingqo herself, often accessorizing it with other beaded items. Typically more numerous and elaborate beaded items are worn at special or ceremonial occasions, where the wealthiest members of society make their standing known. Today imigingqo can still be found around peoples’ necks or for sale in bead artisan’s shops, though they are less prominent in day-to-day life.

Specific Techniques

Imigingqo are made using a beadworking technique called gongqoloza, which involves wrapping a string of already-strung beads around a core; made from either cloth or glass.

Iconographic Meaning

Each colour in Zulu beadwork is associated with a traditional proverb, allowing for a translation of meaning; the specifics of the message are known only to the maker. In this umbingqo, the colours white (obumhlope), black (obumnyama), red (umgazi), are yellow (incombo) are used.