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History Of Use

The techniques, structures and some of the motifs have pre-Conquest antecedents. This type of textile conveys the most about an individual's ethnicity, sex, age, status and particular history. Young teenage girls make belts of this width after they have mastered the pick-up motifs by weaving many narrower bands. They are worn by boys and girls up to the age of 14 or 15. Increasingly, young girls and women are spurred to make belts of this size for sale to tourists. Belts made specifically for sale are generally less fine.

Cultural Context

children's everyday wear

Description

Belt with white design motifs arranged in lengthwise stripes. A variety of geometric and figurative motifs occur in the central stripe which is flanked by purple, pink and green stripes. A white zigzag and lozenge motif is repeated near both outside edges and green and white dotted stripes are placed between the zigzag stripes and the central stripe. The remainder of the belt is red. One end terminates in 10 narrow braids, and a re-twisted cord is attached to each end of the belt.

Narrative

Bought in Taquile from the maker, Marcialina Quispe Cruz. It is the 5th belt of this size she has woven and she finished it in 2 weeks before it was purchased. It is the type of belt that she would wear if she had not sold all that she had woven.

Specific Techniques

Commercial synthetic yarns, z 2 s, are retwisted on the drop spindle before warping. Plain colour areas are warp-faced plain weave with 3-span floats aligned in alternate pairs with an irregular (abbabaab) warping order (3/1 horizontal colour changes are diagonals of 2 span floats). The belt is woven to its finished dimensions. The warps in the terminal area are grouped and braided in 3 strand oblique interlacing with the warp loops intact. The cords for tying the belt are re-plied (z) groups of the same yarn used in the warp and are attached by passing through the fabric or through the braided loops at each end of the belt.

Iconographic Meaning

The range of motifs refers to local geography and landmarks, ecology, fecundity as well as luck. The six part circle refers to the division of land into six sections on Taquile and the rotation of crops and fallow periods. The zigzag side borders are called 'nawi kenko' or meander with eyes. The dotted line is 'q'oto' or division. The coloured stripes flanking the centre designs are 'a'an camino', a road. The rayed diamond is 'chaska', the morning star, and the striated cross is 'tejeral' or scissors. The striated diamond is 'chakra' or cultivated fields. The reverse curve is 'raukana', a tool for turning over the earth. A house, 'wasi', and birds 'pacquero' are also represented.