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History Of Use

The colour, extent of patterning, shape and the manner in which 'chullus' or caps are worn signifies differences in age, sex and status of wearer. Females wear chullus in early childhood, but only males wear them later in life. Knitting is done only by men and boys, traditionally for chullus, but more recently for vest fronts, coin purses, gloves, ties, vests and sweaters which are sold to tourists. This half patterned style is designated for unmarried men, but it is in fact worn by many married men, including Faustino on the occasion of his marriage. The message conveyed by the half-patterned and fully patterned caps is changing from an indicator of marriage status to a sign of special occasion.

Narrative

Bought from the maker and user, Faustino Quispe Cruz. It is one of 2 nearly identical hats which he knit for the occasion of his wedding. Because wedding ceremonies span several days, brides and grooms generally prepare multiples of required garments. Faustino knit the half-patterned hat rather than the fully-patterned hat because he didn't have enough time to make the more labour-intensive and 'correct' hat for a married man.

Description

Tapering red and white knit cap with a thick red tassel accented with brilliant colours. The lower half has a brilliant red background divided by dark blue lines into 5 pattern bands. Three bands have an 8 petalled motif joined by geometric and figurative designs worked in white yarn. The upper section is white and tapers to a point where the tassel is sewn on.

Iconographic Meaning

The flower and stepped diagonal is called 'cinta lawar' in Quechua and 'camino y rosa' (road and flowers) in Spanish. The angular s-shape is 'raukana' which is a hand tool for turning over the earth. The other s-shape is 'rosa silla' or rose thorn. The butterfly has a connotation of bad luck.

Specific Techniques

Synthetic commercial yarns are z spun and plied 2-s. Cap is knitted in the round with 5 needles. Worked with the inside of the cap facing and worked with the purl stitch. Extra colours are added in local area. Shaping is done on needles. Tassel is sewn on.