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Specific Techniques

Sheep's wool is spun z and plied 2-s. The background and stripes are warp-faced plain weave and motifs are picked-up in a complementary warp weave with 3 span floats aligned in alternate pairs. The dyes are unknown. The complete cloth is one fabric with 4 selvedges.

History Of Use

The techniques, structures and some of the motifs have pre-Conquest antecedents. This type of textile conveys the most about an individual's ethnicity, sex, age, status and particular history. The exchange, offering and chewing of coca leaves is an ancient Andean custom that is practiced on diverse occasions, both mundane and sacred, including; payments to Pachamama (the earth), weddings, during community work, socializing after work, etc. Men use coca bags while women use a flat cloth. Today, it is only older women and wives of elected authorities who use istallas. Plastic bags and other containers are more widely used by younger women.

Narrative

Bought from Rosa Quispe Flores in Taquile. She was carrying coca leaves in it when she offered it for sale. She has used it on a daily basis during the last 30 years.

Iconographic Meaning

The range of motifs refers to local geography and landmarks, ecology, fecundity as well as luck. The six part circle refers to the division of land into six sections on Taquile and the rotation of crops and fallow periods. The 'x' is 'tejeral (scissors or roof supports). The 's' is 'raukana' a hand tool for agriculture; the 4 part diamond is called 'vaca wisa' (pregnant cow).

Cultural Context

coca use

Description

Cloth, rectangular, with red bands and stripes on an off-white ground. The three major bandss have white geometric motifs down the centre flanked by narrow stripes of red, pink, blue and green. Four red and green stripes alternate with the bands. Red borders at the edges parallel the stripes and bands.