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Cultural Context

matrimonial wear; fiesta wear

Specific Techniques

Single spun sheep's wool, z twist, in a balanced plain weave; jacket is cut from yardage dyed black and assembled by sewing. Pleated panels are appliqued to the bodice fronts. Re-plied cords of pink yarn, z-2s-2z, are couched to the bodice, neck and cuffs. Front and cuff closures are commercial yarns stitched once through the fabric and then knotted.

Description

Short black wool jacket with full sleeves and a neckline cut low in front. Sleeves have a snug cuff with a bold design of triangles in bright pink yarns. The jacket fronts below the neckline are decorated with pleated panels which have a faded pink meandering line of yarns sewn on top. The same pink yarns encircle the neck and form boxes around the meanders. Two sets of wool twine that tie the jacket together.

Narrative

Bought from Trefona Marca Quispe, the daughter of the maker. Mariano made the jacket about 40 years ago from cloth he had woven. It was used by Mariano's wife, Rosa Quispe Flores for certain fiestas and then was used by their daughters, Trefona and Dionisia, for their weddings. It was also worn by Trefona's husband, Juan Flores Machaca, when he was the transvestite dancer in the San Flores Fiesta about 1981. In this Fiesta, the major dancer is a man dressed as a woman. Not too many families have this type of jacket at present, and this one has been carefully stored and lent to many people for occasions requiring it.

History Of Use

Bayeta, a type of coarse cloth, is made on the treadle loom and is used for garments that are cut to size and sewn, such as trousers, shirts and vests. The style, the construction and the loom used are derived from Spanish peasant tradition. Handspun sheep's wool is the traditional material but synthetic yarns are now used as well. The juhun is an older style of garment which is still worn by women for special occasions like weddings, the Fiestas of Santa Cruz (May 3rd) and Pentecost. It is also worn by 1 male dancer at the Fiesta of San Isidoro (mid-May) who is dressed as a female.