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Description

Cloth composed of a very long strip of woven cloth with black, blue and white stripes that run the length. Two stick segments are attached at one end.

History Of Use

Aso-oke cloth. West African narrow strip weaving must have begun by the 10th century; similar examples from the 13th century exist. The tradition may have originated in Arabic North Africa, Egypt, or the Near East, but no definitive answer has been found. Strips are made by men only, typically in 8 to 15 cm. widths, on double-heddle looms (also known as narrow stripe looms). They are sewn together to make material used for garments and other fabric products. Aso-oke was used for everyday use, and traditional and religious occasions. The garments made were sokoto (trousers), buba (top or blouse), agbada (robe), fila (cap), iro (wrapper), ipele or iborun (shawl), and gele (head tie). Generally, aso-oke is classified into three main types: etu, alaari, and sanyan. They are identified by their pattern- achieved through extra weft brocading technique- and colour, as well as their use for designated traditional ceremonies. Aso-oke is usually worn in collective groups, in which case it is referred to as aso-ebi, which refers to cloth worn by well-wishers such as friends and family for a particular celebration. Aso-oke use was impacted by British colonization as economic policies implemented then favored the influx of foreign goods, especially British cotton manufactured goods at the expense of indigenous traditional textiles industries. Previously it had even been used as a form of currency, until the late 1800s. Mass-produced English-style cotton garments, and the introduction of foreign yarn, competed with hand crafted aso-oke leading to decline in patronage and production, evident by the early 1900s. The introduction of Islam and Christianity to Yorubaland also introduced new dress styles for converts, affecting the popularity of aso-oke. British garments were largely seen as markers of prestige, innovation and civility over indigenous clothing. However, the struggle for independence leading up to 1960 ushered in a wave of cultural nationalism, leading major ethnic groups to dress in garments particular to their region. Aso-oke can be found in markets today and is still worn at special occasions, such as weddings, birthdays and burial ceremonies around the world.

Narrative

The De Wreede collection was collected over a 2 year period in which the De Wreede's were mostly in Sierra Leone, and partly in Nigeria.

Cultural Context

clothing; furnishings

Iconographic Meaning

This particular aso-oke strip appear to be a combination of the etu and sanyan types. Etu (“fowl”) is known by its dark blue colouring with light blue stripes. It is supposed to resemble guinea fowls feathers and is used as a social attire for chiefs and elders among the Yoruba. Sanyan has a beige-grey tone and is considered to be the most expensive of all Yoruba woven fabrics; due to expensive it is called baba aso (father of fabrics). Today, sanyan and etu are said to be used for burial rites because of their colours. Aso-oke is also known to symbolize protection, especially from spiritual problems.

Item History

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