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Description

Domed hat consisting of three woven strips sewn diagonally selvedge to selvedge with a 9 cm diameter circle of the same cloth at the top centre. The strips are slightly pleated and are folded up on the outside of the base to form a 4 cm wide rim. Each strip has a pattern of stripes; broad black selvedge, white stripe, broad brown stripe and four narrow black stripes separated by three narrow white, then a broad brown, white and broad black before a white selvedge.

Narrative

The De Wreede collection was collected over a 2 year period in which the De Wreede's were mostly in Sierra Leone, and partly in Nigeria.

Iconographic Meaning

These particular aso-oke strips appear to be a combination of the etu and sanyan types. Etu (“fowl”) is known by its dark blue colouring with light blue stripes. It is supposed to resemble guinea fowls feathers and is used as a social attire for chiefs and elders among the Yoruba. Sanyan has a beige-grey tone and is considered to be the most expensive of all Yoruba woven fabrics; due to expensive it is called baba aso (father of fabrics). Today, sanyan and etu are said to be used for burial rites because of their colours. Aso-oke is also known to symbolize protection, especially from spiritual problems.

History Of Use

The kufi—also known as a taqiyah, fila, or koofiyad—is a brimless cap typically worn by West African Muslim men. It has been worn for centuries and is considered to be part of following the Sunnah (teachings) of the Islamic prophet, Muhammad. Usually worn in observance of the five daily Islamic prayers, it is typically accompanied by an agbádá (a flowing, wide-sleeved robe). Despite its association with Islam, the kufi is now worn by Africans of various faiths and has become part of traditional West African dress. Cap is made of aso-oke cloth. West African narrow strip weaving must have begun by the 10th century; similar examples from the 13th century exist. The tradition may have originated in Arabic North Africa, Egypt, or the Near East, but no definitive answer has been found. Strips are made by men only, typically in 8 to 15 cm. widths, on a variety of loom types. Generally, aso-oke is classified into three main types: etu, alaari, and sanyan. They are identified by their pattern- achieved through extra weft brocading technique- and colour, as well as their use for designated traditional ceremonies. Based on the cloth type, this cap could have been worn by men during the burial rites of a chief or other prominent person in the community.