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Cultural Context

commerce

Iconographic Meaning

This type of hat represents official status.

Specific Techniques

Frames for crown and brim were woven of finely-split bamboo or horse hair. The silk fabric was dyed with natural dye. Paper was then adhered to the inside of the frame, and silk fabric adhered to outside, with paper edging and strips pasted on. Outside was lacquered red; inside was painted black.

Description

Official emergency hat with flat round brim attached to crown shaped like truncated cone. Inside of hat is made of paper painted black, with a woven texture showing. Outside of hat is covered with fine red silk, with edges trimmed with red paper, and with vertical strips of red paper on each side of the crown, at the bottom of which are small red tubes. On the underside of the brim from the tubes and strips are attached two red silk ribbons that are tied together. Crown of hat projects slightly below its point of insertion into the brim. Brim is somewhat wavy and has black and brown stains.

History Of Use

Such hats were worn by officials outside the court, in situations where more delicate and elaborate headgear could not be worn. They were worn in times of crisis, such as war, when the official had to move quickly, and were also worn for sports such as archery. The tubes at the sides would normally hold feathers in luxurious colours that were about one foot long. The king’s guards also wore such hats when the king went out on ceremonial parade, as did the king’s secretary.. In the early and middle Chosun Dynasty the brim was wider. The father of Emperor Go-joing, Tae Won Kun, wanted to close off Korea from the Chinese and Japanese, and also wanted the Korean people to become more frugal and practical, so he ordered men to wear hats with narrower brims, saying that the wider ones were impractical and ostentatious. He also ordered them to narrow their sleeves. Such hats could also be worn by female shamans, although their hats were normally more ornamented. They wore them to carry out exorcisms of the ghosts of officials. Shamans were not prevented from imitating official regalia except for that worn by the king. They were made in workshops by specialists