Accession Number

Cultural Group

Material

Process

Region

Field Collector

Acquired

PRM Source

Dimension

Keyword

Class

Description

Red argillite oval-shaped labret. [CAK 26/05/2009]

Longer Description

Red argillite oval-shaped labret. One side of the labret (possibly that side worn against the gums) is oval and flat. The labret narrows around its midsection. The other side of the labret is concave and forms a larger oval. [CAK 07/07/2009]

Research Notes

Labrets were worn by Haida females as a sign of their status. [CAK 26/05/2009] The following passages can be found in Charles Harrison's manuscript, sent to E.B. Tylor at the Pitt Rivers Museum, and later expanded and published as Ancient Warriors of the North Pacific. On page 16, he writes: "When her time [first menstruation] was over her uncle made a feast, then her lower lip was pierced, and a piece of whalebone inserted about the size of an ordinary shirt stud. On her marriage this was enlarged to the size of a cuff button. The size increased according to the social position of her marriage, and the number of children she bears, so that in reality this bone insertion is a mark of caste. I have seen some very large ones, on which the lip lay distended exposing the teeth. The fact is the Haida women have more lip than any other we know of, and to see a group of them quarrelling, the lip shaking with anger, is a sight not to be forgotten. The old women who have their lips pierced are generally at the bottom of all the rows, and act afterwards as peacemakers, looking as innocent as lambs They are great diplomats and generally contrive to have their own way, and it is a mistake to imagine them treated as slaves, for though they do much drudgery, an offer of assistance from a man would be laughed at. They also pierced their noses, and suspended shells, bone, teeth of animals and other bijouterie from them when at a state of puberty, and during each successive month at the customary period: and it is not a bad idea either, for what is jewellery and other ornaments for if not to be conspicuous and admired." And on page 34, he writes: "Chin Stones or Bones. A girl formerly, as soon as she arrived at the years of puberty, had her chin or lower lip slit, and a piece of whalebone inserted. Very rarely silver was used. I have however seen this article made of silver, as well as of bones, and of stone. It is increased according to the rank she takes when married, and to the number of children she bears." [CAK 27/05/2009]

The following information comes from Haida delegates who worked with the museum's collection in September 2009 as part of the project “Haida Material Culture in British Museums: Generating New Forms of Knowledge”:
This labret was viewed alongside other items of personal adornment on Friday Sept 11, 2009. Christian White identified the material as red argillite, which can be found near St Mary's Srping on the east coast of Graham Island on Haida Gwaii. He said it is brittle like argillite, but has a mottled colour so is not used as often as black argillite. A discussion of labrets can be seen on Tape 6, time 3:30 - 4:30, which can be found in the Haida Project Related Documents File.
A group discussion about argillite raised the following points. Argillite is only carved on Haida Gwaii. It is a natural resource of the islands, is very brittle and difficult to carve. Black is the most common variety, but rarer red and brown varieties also exist. It requires a skillful hand to carve it successfully. In addition to early trading, argillite served an important purpose during difficult years in Haida communities. Even when not skillfully executed, argillite allowed carvers to record stories and oral histories, like previous generations did in wood before them; they were able to preserve a significant amount of information that might otherwise have been lost. Argillite also provided a medium for Haidas to be satirical about the Europeans they were encountering. [CAK 17/05/2010]

Primary Documentation

Accession book entry - C. HARRISON, Esq. Specimens collected from the HAIDA of QUEEN CHARLOTTE ID., B.C.... - Ancient red-stone labret, worn in the lower lip by women who had borne several children

No additional information on catalogue cards. [JC 5 9 1996]

Former Pitt Rivers Museum display label [in Related Documents File] - Old lip stud of stone, worn by women with large families. Haida, Queen Charlotte Id. d.d. C. Harrison.1924. Dug up in his garden. [MdeA 16/9/2005]

Written on object - Labret of woman with large family. HAIDA, Qu-Charlotte.d.d. C. Harrison, 1924 (dug up in his garden). [JC 12 11 1996]

Related Documents File - A discussion of labrets can be viewed on Tape 6, time 3:30 - 4:30 in the Haida Project Related Documents File which contains video of research sessions and interviews with Haida delegates from September 2009 as part of the project ‘Haida Material Culture in British Museums: Generating New Forms of Knowledge'. It also includes post-visit communications that discuss object provenance. For extensive photographic, video, and textual records documenting the Haida research visit as a whole, including but not limited to preparations of objects for handling, travel logistics, British Museum participation, transcribed notes from research sessions and associated public events held at PRM, see the Haida Project Digital Archive, stored with the Accessions Registers. Original hand-written notes taken during research sessions have been accessioned into the Manuscripts collection, in addition to select other materials. [CAK 02/06/2010]