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Specific Techniques

Dr. Choi, Hai-yaul provided all the specialized information concerning this clothing and its historical and cultural context, assisted by Kim, Geonhee, Museum of Anthropology Volunteer Associate, who provided translation when needed. The information was recorded in English and formatted for cataloguing by Elizabeth Johnson, Curator of Ethnology. This research project was funded by a Faculty Small Grant from the Centre for Korean Research, U.B.C., and by a Museum of Anthropology Research and Teaching Grant. The fineness of the hand-sewing suggests that this hood was made by specialists in a shop. This object was originally catalogued by Museum of Anthropology Volunteer Associate Verna Lister. The references are hers.

Description

Open-top hood made of dark red silk damask with added ear-flaps of blue silk damask edged and lined with white rabbit fur and filled with grey cotton batting. The red damask is patterned with three roundels, each with two dragons surrounding a Chinese character. The blue damask is patterned with bat ? shapes and a Buddhist swastika. The hood is constructed of two halves sewn together at the centre of the forehead and centre back, but with an opening at the top edged with black piping ending with a short slit at the back. The hood is cut straight across the forehead with two deep scallops edged with black piping on each side. It is edged entirely with two layers of skin with black fur, one facing inside and the other facing outside. A flat red silk cord woven with green and gold geometric designs crosses the opening from front to back, ending at the back in an elaborate knot made of pink and dark blue cord, below which are five red tassels wrapped in gold thread. At the front there an elaborate double knot of gold, pink, and yellow cord, below which are seven red tassels wrapped in gold thread. The hood is lined with bright green felt, and has fragments of paper attached to it with long white running stitches.

Iconographic Meaning

The colour of the body of the hood shows that it was for a young married woman. The odd number of tassels represents good fortune. The flat cord, used instead of beads, shows that the wearer was less wealthy.

History Of Use

In the later Chosun Dynasty, such hoods were used for both men and women. Those of purple or deep blue fabric were for women. Those with detailing such as jade ornaments and coral beads were worn by high-class women of the official “Yangban” class. Those with less lavish details were worn by women of that class, but not of such high status. Ordinary people just wore ear covers held in place with a cord. These hoods were open at the top for ventilation, so the wearer would not catch cold because of the difference between her body heat and the outdoor temperature. The ear flaps could be fastened under the wearer’s chin. Hoods of this type came from the northern part of Korea. Ones that were very finely sewn were made in shops. The lining was normally a colour opposite to that on the outside, to make the hood more colourful.