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Iconographic Meaning

The fine silk shows that the wearer was an intellectual.

History Of Use

Such white silk “Jo-go-ri” were worn as a part of everyday clothing in winter by intellectuals such as teachers at this time. It likely was made at home. The shape remains traditional, and there are inner ties. Silk ribbon ties were very precious. Cotton inner linings absorbed perspiration. Padded clothing like this could be washed without being disassembled, but it had to be carefully hand-washed with no rubbing.

Specific Techniques

Most sewing was done by hand with invisible stitching, but there is also some machine sewing. The replaceable collar was secured with running stitches. The fabrics are tacked together at the wrist to keep the lining from showing. The outer layer of silk was starched and ironed. An interfacing and inside facing were added in the sewing process. The silk was hand-woven, and has a narrow loom width. Some fabric is pieced.

Description

Men’s off-white jacket. The jacket has a narrow collar stiffened with paper, a v-neck and an overlapping centre opening with long wide ties. The sleeves are long and wide with a rounded lower edge. The outside is made of silk; the inside is made of fine white cotton and padded.