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Description

Skirt made of one and one-half panels of shiny red brocade with a background pattern of full and half roundels with a stylized Chinese character surrounded by cloud-like patterns, with smaller curvilinear patterns between. The skirt is open at the back, and is lined with red nylon transparent fabric. The panels are pleated and inserted into a band of similar fabric but with a floral pattern. The upper edge of the band is scalloped, with the points of the scallops meeting the ends of two shoulder straps of the nylon lining. On both sides of the back opening are embroidered simple yellow chrysanthemums with green stems and leaves, and with a border at the side and bottom of green leaves On the centre front near the bottom are embroidered two Chinese characters in blue, one above the other. On each side of the characters is embroidered a phoenix facing the centre, with five long tail feathers in green, white, blue, yellow, and turquoise, with metallic thread throughout.

Specific Techniques

The skirt is sewn with machine stitching. The embroidery is done by machine.

History Of Use

The straps attached to the curved shape of the skirt band were innovations introduced after the opening of Korea to the outside world in the late 19th century, replacing the simple waistband with long ties of the traditional “Chi-ma”. The new style was considered to be more modest, as it covered the breasts, and more comfortable. The back opening at that time would be fastened with a safety pin. Such “Chi-ma”, made of synthetic fabrics and worn with jackets “Jo-go-ri” with rainbow “saek-dong” sleeves, were worn by girls and women on festivals and other special occasions. A girl might wear such clothing on her first birthday. By this time the rainbow “saek-dong” sleeves were made of fabric woven in stripes, rather than being pieced as they had been previously. The Korean textile industry had developed to the point that it could produce such fabrics by this time. By the late 1960s, Korean people generally wore simple clothing so that they could work more efficiently. During the 18 years that Park, Chong-hee was president, the transformation of South Korea from an agricultural country to an industrial one was accomplished, and people were urged to work hard. In compensation, people wore elaborate clothing on special occasions. The skirts “Chi-ma” were decorated with machine embroidery at that time, but not now. Clothing of this kind was made in markets, and the relatively rough finishing, with the outer fabric folded under to hide the cheaper lining, is typical of that work.