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Narrative

This piece was purchased in Baluchistan.

Specific Techniques

Satin stitch; couching; buttonhole stitch; herringbone stitch.

Iconographic Meaning

During the wedding ceremony the (neckline) slit is worn to the back, but after the marriage is consummated it is worn to the front. This is symbolic. After the wedding ceremony the slit is, again, worn permanently to the back.

History Of Use

Worn by a bride at her wedding, then daily until it wears out. After that, salvageable parts are used to make other items, such as purses, cushion covers or door hangings. Wedding tunics are made by the bride’s mother, who begins the embroidery when a girl is born. She continues working on it until the wedding day, sometimes with the help of neighbors and relatives. Razia Ahmed states that “during the wedding ceremony, which goes on for days, the (neckline) slit is worn to the back, but after the marriage is consummated it is worn to the front. This is symbolic. After the wedding ceremony the slit is, again, worn permanently to the back.” This type of tunic is worn with shalwars (baggy pants), usually made of susi, a special woven cloth made in Sindh. It is rare to see women wearing this type of tunic today. Many of the women who would have made them are now employed in the money economy and no longer have time to embroider, as in the past.

Description

Multi-coloured woman’s tunic that is lavishly embellished with panels and bands of embroidery on both the front and the back, incorporating several styles of stitching. The garment is very stiff and heavy. On the front, there is a large embroidered panel from shoulder to hip, and the upper edge of this panel extends over the shoulders to form a narrow yoke on the back. The embroidery on this panel is so elaborately detailed and so densely worked that none of the background textile is visible. Design elements in this embroidered panel include circular and diamond shaped motifs and many small mirrors. Below the densely embroidered panel on the front are three horizontal bands decorated with triangular motifs, rickrack, sequins and metallic braid embroidery. The back of the tunic has a centre-back neckline slit (37 cm). Pouches made of yellow and red textile which is embellished with an X made of black braid are sewn into the top of the neck edge on both sides of the neckline slit. The pouches contain small amounts of dried plant material. Below the back shoulder yoke are horizontal bands of navy blue and silver brocade. A panel of orange textile, embroidered with oval and square shapes, extends to the hem of the garment. The sides of the garment are formed from vertical strips of bright pink, green and gold satin textile. The bottoms of the elbow-length sleeves are finished with several rows of diamond-shaped motifs.