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Specific Techniques

darning stitch

History Of Use

The nape of the neck is considered a vulnerable entry point for evil spirits, and caps like this one protect young children from harm.

Description

Helmut-like hat, or cap, with a long flap in the back that covers the ears and back of the neck. It is made of a satin-weave fabric that is machine printed with multi-coloured designs of flowers, leaves and stems, and it is heavily ornamented with glass and plastic beads, metal zipper teeth, plastic buttons, cotton braid and silver-coloured ball chains. On the forehead are panels of curvilinear designs and borders of beading and metal applique. The crown consists of a circular panel of finely-worked silk embroidery on black cotton textile, topped with a beaded topknot and silver ornament. Completely lined with blue-gray cotton.

Narrative

This cap was purchased by McLennan at Threadlines Gallery in Islamabad, Pakistan, in 1985 while he was on assignment for the Museum of Anthropology, which had a contract with the administration of Expo ‘86 to set up the Pakistan pavilion at the fair. The Museum purchased it, along with the other items in the 1098 accession, in 1986. The tag that was attached to this cap when it was purchased in Pakistan identifies the culture and the place of manufacture, but it is difficult to decipher the handwriting. There are two distinctly different types of embroidery on this cap, a rather flamboyant style on the body of the cap and a more finely worked panel comprising the crown. Askari and Crill state that embroideries from the NW Frontier province of Pakistan sometimes combine local styles of stitchery with panels and borders from other regions that are available in the marketplace (pp. 130-131).