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Cultural Context

ceremonial

Specific Techniques

In this scarf, two styles of embroidery are combined: kharek is characterized by dense, squared-off geometric designs worked in satin stitch, and pakka is very dense and flowery. Textile includes laid work, couched; satin stitch; chain stitch; buttonhole stitch; elongated square chain stitch.

History Of Use

Frater (1995) states: “Traditional for the groom among Kutchi or Bhopa Rabaris is a bukani worn wrapped around his mouth, chin, and turban... As the groom came by camel to his bride’s village for the wedding, the bukani protected his skin and ears from the sandy winds. Today, with couples marrying later and the availability of State Transport buses, public carrier trucks and even tractors for transportation, grooms often wear bukani as shoulder cloths or belts.” (p. 215).

Narrative

Purchased by Milton and Beverly Israel while traveling in India. Beyond that the provenance of the scarf is not documented, so we do not know its geographic and ethnic origins or its date of production. Based on style it appears to be from an Ahir, Rabari or Meghwal maker?

Description

Man’s long, narrow, rectangular scarf or sash, heavily embroidered with multicoloured geometric and floral motifs and many mirrors. Arranged along the length of the scarf are sixteen square and rectangular blocks of embroidered designs, consisting of a variety of motifs, many different kinds of stitches and two styles of embroidery (kharek and pakka). The embroidery is so dense that it completely covers the background textile. The blocks of embroidery are separated by black “braid” formed from bundles of black cotton thread which is laid and couched with red thread. There is a border of silver and gold mirrors along all four edges, and the ends are embellished with green and pink beadwork and small red-orange silk tassels. A binding of dark green cotton muslin is machine-stitched along the outside edges. The underlining is pieced from plain and printed cotton and rayon(?) textile in various shades of red.