Mud Cloth

Item number 3382/2 from the MOA: University of British Columbia.

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Description

Mud cloth composed of six long pieces and two shorter lengths, of hand woven textile, stitched together along the long edges, and dyed black with off-white designs. The cloth is rectangular, with short fringe along both short edges. The overall design is composed of zigzags, lines, repeating T-shapes, and dots.

History Of Use

Prior to Mali's independence from France in 1960, bògòlanfini or bogolan were usually worn by hunters, pregnant women, and anyone in danger of losing blood. Since then, mud cloth has started to be exported and is worn as a symbol of pride.

Cultural Context

Bògòlanfini or bogolan ("mud cloth") has an important place in traditional culture and has more recently become a symbol of Malian cultural identity.

Specific Techniques

The traditionally handmade cotton cloth is soaked in a dye bath made from mashed and boiled leaves of the n’galma tree. Designs are then painted using river mud fermented for over a year, and remain on the dyed cloth following the chemical reaction between tannic acid and iron oxide.