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Description

A section of a golon (skirt band) that has been made into a belt by the addition of woven ties. The band has a pattern of diamonds and X’s against a red ground, woven in twill tapestry. The ties are woven in a complementary warp weave in wool yarns.

History Of Use

Skirt borders, called golones (Spanish), commonly range from 2–10 cm wide and are sewn onto the lower edge of skirts (polleras) in many communities in the Cuzco region. Some bands are even wider, especially those worn by young unmarried women in Patacancha Valley communities. In some communities the skirt bands are relatively narrow, for example in Chinchero and Pitumarka. The bands are woven in twill tapestry on a loom that has many heddles (often 8, but as many as 16 or more). The loom with heddles is not of indigenous origin, and the golon is not woven with four finished edges. The skirt border and loom were imports from Spain. The gathered skirts to which the golones are attached are also imported garment types. The warps are a plain light colour, except for the warps at the edges, and the wefts are brightly coloured. The wefts are often synthetic commercial yarns in neon colours; various geometric patterns based on diamonds and diagonals are woven.

Narrative

Bought by the donor in the Cusco area between 1978 and 1984; made and used in the same region.