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Strap Dress with Red and Green Embroidery50.67.2

This dress is composed of four sections of very white and pliable skin, probably employing at least two deer or caribou hides. Two large pieces of skin were sewn together to form the front and back of the dress and the upper edge of the skin is turned down as a long graceful flap to the waist. Two smaller pieces of skin are added to serve as shoulder straps. The entire dress, including the quillwork, is sewn together with thread. The seams that join the two major sections are fringed. Fringe near the shoulder is clipped very short so that it appears "pinked" and the fringe at the bottom of the dress is wrapped with orange and blue porcupine quills. The decoration of the shoulder straps is somewhat unusual as it differs from front to back. Scallops terminate the straps on the dress' front' while fringes decorate the shorter ends of the straps at the back. The straps are also decorated with a row of tiny black beads that edge the sides of these straps and surround the three scalloped lobes on each. Pairs of black beads in a double row decorate the section of the strap that intersects with the low neck line. Each scalloped portion of the straps is also ornamented, right and left, with bows made of hide strips wrapped at intervals with orange and light blue quills. Similar string-like ornaments are also attached at the proper right side of the front flap and the proper left side on the black flap. Quillwork strips across the body of the dress are in green, black, brown, white, reddish orange and light blue. Black seed beads and blue pony beads are applied as a scalloped border on an added piece of skin near the hem of the dress and tin cones are suspended in pairs from the apex of each of these beaded curves by thin hide strands wrapped at intervals with orange quills. See Jarvis report in Arts of Americas files.

Culture
Yanktonai, Nakota and Sioux
Material
emulsion cured buckskin, dyed porcupine quill, glass bead, tin, copper tinkler, thread, sinew and pigment
Holding Institution
Brooklyn Museum
View Item Record
Sidefold Dress50.67.6

This side fold dress consists of six pieces: the main body of the dress, the flounce, the shoulder flap, the top bodice, and two hide thongs as a second shoulder strap. The horizontal seam is low and the folded over portion is shorter and would barely cover the breast. The folded over flap is even shorter in the back. The hide is worked so that the flesh side of the skin lies against the wearer, with the fur side out. The flounce is laced with hide thong. The seam of the dress, the blue and white pony beads on the shoulder strap, and the hem tabs are all sewn. It is likely that the two bottom tabs at the left side of the dress are formed from a remnant of the foreleg of the animal or are a decorative form to resemble this pattern technique imitating the animal's legs. Ten quilled stripes are worked around the skirt of the dress, horizontally, in measured registers of blue (once blue-green but faded since original BMA acquisition) and brown quill, separated by shorter sections of white porcupine quill where red tufts, once the tassels, of yarn emerge. Small black lines separate each quilled section. Some vertical marks of what is probably ochre appear at the ends of the quilled bands. Tin cones and a few copper cones are sewn to the bottom of the flounce, more or less at knee length, and on the two bottom tabs, which are further elaborated with an edging of blue and white beads. Five pairs of copper cones are sewn up the side seam. If the shoulder strap is examined from above, blue and white beads can be seen ornamenting the seams. A single row or blue beads edges the sides while the front and back seams display eight bands of two rows of white beads alternating with two rows of blue pony beads. See Jarvis supplemental file in Arts of Americas office or Brooklyn Museum Library.

Culture
Yankton, Nakota and Sioux
Material
buffalo hide dyed bird ?, porcupine quill, copper metal, tinned iron, copper cone, pony glass bead, yarn, pigment and sinew
Holding Institution
Brooklyn Museum
View Item Record
Pipe Stem50.67.88

Sioux. Beautiful very long pipe stem. Catlin painted people holding these long pipes. Ceremonial use is for agreement meetings, visits and trade.

Culture
Yankton, Nakota and Sioux
Material
ashwood and pigment
Holding Institution
Brooklyn Museum
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Bow, Bow Case, Arrows and Quiver50.67.27a-b

The object is a bow, a bow case, arrows and a quiver. Bow is inlaid with elk antler and decorated with bands of mallard duck neck skin. There is red dyed horsehair tufts at each end. Duck skin is used because for the Sioux the duck appears in all three levels of the world - sky, water and earth. The buffalo hide bow and quiver case has red and black pigment mixed with glue. Even lines of glue are used to create lines around the black triangles. The bow has an elaborate design on the surface created by inlaid sections of elk horn. On either side of the inlaid area is a red painted band, at the ends of which are mallard scalp feathers that have almost disappeared. The bow is backed with white-painted thread. Attached to each end of the bow are red horsehair ornaments. Also attached is a strip of red stroud cloth fastened around the handgrip. The bow case and quiver are made of buffalo hide and have sparsely painted designs. There are five configured designs: two on each side of the bow case and one on the quiver. The designs are made up of elongated diamond shapes divided in half with a small linking section between each repeated triangular part. All parts of the design are delineated with thin impressed lines. The triangles are filled in alternately with dark brown and red color. The small linking section is brown. The intensity of the colors is pale, perhaps from an application of sizing. From the bottom of the bow case hang hide tabs, with pierced decorations.

Culture
Yankton, Nakota and Sioux
Material
elk horn, thread, horse hair, stroud cloth, sinew, metal, pigment, buffalo hide, mallard scalp and remnants of feather
Holding Institution
Brooklyn Museum
View Item Record
Pair of Leggings50.67.9a-b

These leggings are constructed with a long "tab" at each hip, near the top and above each outer seam. Below these tabs the outer seams on the rest of both leggings are decorated with one vertical strip of porcupine quillwork on each, outlined with beads in red, white-centered red, and black. The small seed bead and the cornalined'allepo (the white-centered) beads are not usually found on garments this early. Long fringes ornament the outer seams and the base of each strand is wrapped with red porcupine quills. The top and bottom edges of the leggings have short fringes. Shorter tabs are sewn on the bottom. This is generally referred to as bottom tabbed leggings, a style that permitted the tabs to stream along after the wearer when walking, a fashion that existed for only a brief time.

Culture
Red River Metis, Yanktonai, Nakota and Sioux
Material
buckskin, porcupine quill, seed bead and thread
Holding Institution
Brooklyn Museum
View Item Record
Pair of Chief's Dress Leggings50.67.7b-c

Compared to many other Plains leggings this pair is exceptionally short at 25 inches in length. Most others average over 42 inches on the inside seam and some up to 48 inches, with up to 72 inches on the outside seam. The skin on these leggings is the same light color and texture as matching shirt 50.67.7a. They look new and unworn. The leggings are decorated with a single flap, which are cut into short fringes. These fringes are wrapped with alternating red and blue quills. The top of the leggings have every other fringe cut out to create a toothed effect. Like the shirt, these leggings may be unfinished. There are no ties on the upper portion for looping to a belt or fastening at a thigh flap. However, both leggings have a dart sewn at this area, perhaps indicating that a tie was once attached. There is the possibility that these leggings were made in the Metis fashion, observed on several scouts,as knee high only. This would make them the same length as women's leggings. See Jarvis supplemental file in Arts of Americas office.

Culture
Red River Metis, Yanktonai, Nakota and Sioux
Material
buckskin, pony bead, porcupine quill and thread
Holding Institution
Brooklyn Museum
View Item Record
Chief's Dress Shirt50.67.7a

This dress shirt matches leggings 50.67.7b-c. A lack of ornamentation suggests it may be unfinished (compare this sparse ornamentation to 50.67.4). The shirt has no pierce work, loom-woven quillwork, or ornamentation on the cuffs. At the neck flap, however, there is an outline of blue beads and at intervals below, an additional two and three bead linear arrangement. There are simply decorated rosettes of concentric rings on either side with centers of plain white skin. Going outward from these centers are rings of quills: light blue; white; red; and a combination of blue and yellow. Following the quills is a ring of white skin, and an outer circle of blue beads. When cleaned in 1992, a fringe damaged by old insect damage became detached at the center of the proper left shoulder. The edges of the torn section were backed and reattached.

Culture
Red River Metis, Yanktonai, Nakota and Sioux
Material
buckskin, glass bead, dyed hair, porcupine quill and thread
Holding Institution
Brooklyn Museum
View Item Record
Pair of Red and Brown Striped Leggings for Chief's Dress50.67.3b-c

These leggings match 50.67.3a. The treatment of the skin of the leggings seems close to that of the shirt in texture and color as well as similar to the leggings of 50.67.9a-b. However, the color of the painting on the shirt and leggings differ with the shirt having red and black pigment and the leggings painted a reddish brown. The leggings show signs of use. The top is stretched and the ties twisted to conform to how they would have been tied. The leggings have tabbed bottoms, cut short across the top of the inset. The internal fringe is quite long, some 10 1/2 inches at the longest. Both leggings are painted with horizontal stripes, the proper right with nine stripes and the left with ten. The color varies from orange on the front to brown on the back.

Culture
Yanktonai, Nakota, Sioux and Red River Metis
Material
buckskin, pigment and sinew
Holding Institution
Brooklyn Museum
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Pair of Moccasins50.67.23a-b

Constructed from a single piece of recycled buffalo hide, formerly painted, these side seam moccasins retain some of the design known as "box and border," in particular one of the terminal parts of the "box" pattern on the painted soles. The painting may have been scraped off the piece of the skin that forms the upper section. The decoration of the vamp is primarily bird quills. These "U" shaped sections of the moccasins are made up of concentric parallel lines. The bottom of the "U", nearer the toe, is composed of three yellow bands, alternating with orange. The upper part of the"U" is physically continuous with this, but is delineated by an abrupt change in color. Alternating rectangles of brown and blue make up the parallel, shorter bands in this section. Thin rows of yellow, orange, and black porcupine quill cover the side seam. Blue pony beads adorn the edge of the tongue and cuff. The laces are ornamented at the tips with tin cones stuffed with red deer hair. All the sewing is done with sinew. See Jarvis supplemental file in Arts of Americas' office.

Culture
Sioux, Yanktonai and Nakota
Material
hide, bead, bird quill, porcupine quill, tin, deer hair, sinew and pigment
Holding Institution
Brooklyn Museum
View Item Record
Chief's War Shirt50.67.11

This shirt is constructed with very little tailoring. It is left open at the sides and a triangular bib is sewn on at the neck. This bib is decorated with blue pony beads, patterned with rows of triangles. Strips made of porcupine quillwork and maidenhair fern stems have been placed on the arms, shoulders and as epaulets. Long buckskin fringes have been added at the sides of the shirt, the bottom, and the sleeves. The shirt is dyed a yellowish-orange color. On the proper right side, many narrow, brown, horizontal bands that are bisected at one end have been painted. These have been said to stand for horse whips. On the proper left, four hourglass shapes, almost completely filled in with black, have been painted. They have been said to stand for cloth or blankets. The triangular neck flap is beaded somewhat differently from front to back. The front shows two rows of triangles whereas the back includes a third row that contains two triangles. The blue beads visually square off the pointed end of the skin and are similar to the design on Jarvis shirt 50.67.1a.

Culture
Sioux, Yanktonai and Nakota
Material
buckskin, dye, pigment, glass bead, porcupine quill, maidenhair fern stem and sinew
Holding Institution
Brooklyn Museum
View Item Record