FROM CARD: "OWL."Provenience note: Anthropology catalogue ledger book lists a locality of Alaska for E67931 - 68019. Catalogue cards list a locality of Sitka. Alaska. It is unclear which is correct, though it is probable that the collection was purchased in Sitka.

From card: "Of spruce root in the twined weave alternating with the checkered weave. Fitted with bear-hide handles (two). Used to carry berries on the back. From Kluckwan [presumably Klukwan] the Chilkat tribe, Tlingit, of southeastern Alaska."

From card: "...B) whale bone; curved shaft, circular carved head."Listed on page 46 in "The Exhibits of the Smithsonian Institution at the Panama-Pacific International Exposition, San Francisco, California, 1915", in section "Arts of the Northwest Coast Tribes (Tools)".

Original label attached to artifact says "Janie Vandal [presumably the maker or original owner?], Jackson, Alaska." Jackson is an alternate name for Howkan, Alaska, which is a Haida town.

Provenience note: Anthropology catalogue ledger book lists a locality of Alaska for E67931 - 68019. Catalogue cards list a locality of Sitka. Alaska. It is unclear which is correct, though it is probable that the collection was purchased in Sitka.

Per Dall's field catalogue, filed under Accession No. 3258, entry under # 615, collector is [Captain] A. [Amos] T. Whitford.Listed on page 46 in "The Exhibits of the Smithsonian Institution at the Panama-Pacific International Exposition, San Francisco, California, 1915", in section "Arts of the Northwest Coast Tribes (Tools)".

HAS CATALOG CARD.

From card: "Illus. in USNM AR, 1893; Pl. 18, figs. 1 & 2, p. 642 (identified incorrectly as 130588). Illus.: Hndbk. N. Amer. Ind., Vol. 7, Northwest Coast, Fig. 13 bottom right, pg. 218." Identified there as walrus hide and recycled moose hide body armor. The section of moose hide at the back shows a portion of a painted bear's crest. From card for E130588, but actually describes 130589: "Skin Armor ... Made of very heavy hide, with corrugated appearance, single thickness. A strip of lighter leather, cut from a painted garment, has been sewed to the left side. A double shoulder protector has been sewed to the left side of the neck opening, and the skin has been cut and enlarged by gussets to protect the right shoulder. A slit cut in the skirt of the coat admits of free movement of the knee. The fringe is wrapped with strips of grass, tied by thongs, on the left side. Curiously this armor must have been worn by a left-handed man, as it is put on in the reverse of the other coats described. Width, 30 inches, height, 37 1/2 inches."The accession card for E130587 - 130590 states: "One trunk of Indian clothing." The items were accessioned as a loan. The loan accession file contains correspondence and memoranda pertaining to the loan. In a letter dated Oswego, New York, September 24, 1888, Max B. Richardson, writes: "A few years ago, while on the Pacific Coast in Oregon, I obtained, among other things, from a fur trader, some curious articles of clothing, made apparently from the skins of the Sea Lion or Walrus. These garments are cut from the same pattern. they have an opening at the top for the head, and an arm-hole for the left arm, and are open at the right side. One of them is padded in front and is more than one inch in thickness, was apparently used as armor. One of them is decorated with Totemistic designs and another one was trimmed with the toes of the Mountain Sheep, with rows of Bear's teeth across the breast, and rows of copper bell-shaped ornaments across the bottom. I have never seen anything like these garments in any collection. I think they were procured by an Agent of the Southwest Trading Company from some Indian belonging to the Aleutian Islands." In a letter dated December 10, 1888, Max B. Richardson furnishes descriptions of the items sent and writes: "The article marked No. 2 was a coat of a chief who doubtless lived in Alaska or upon one of the Aleutian Islands adjacent thereto...The coat No. 1 was a very striking garment when I first saw it...The party of whom I purchased these goods would not sell No. 1 unless I allowed him to remove all the bear's teeth as he wished to use them, and appeared to value them very highly. I had to allow him to cut them off in order to get the garment at all. I am ashamed to say I removed the rest of the ornaments which I have preserved. One of the bear's teeth was carved to represent an eagle. I saved this piece of carving."

For small illustration see Hat 114, p. 221 in Glinsmann, Dawn. 2006. Northern Northwest Coast spruce root hats. Thesis (Ph. D.)--University of Washington, 2006. The spiral start of this hat is also illustrated as Fig. 48, p. 85 in Glinsmann. She notes on p. 85: "... the weft is laid across the spoke, wrapped around the back and twisted, brought to the working surface, and twined, resulting in a spiral effect." Glinsmann also notes on p. 54-55 that this hat appears to be a work hat, of the type Frances Paul indicates "was woven of the coarsest pieces of unpolished root and undecorated save for a coating of paint as a preservative." She notes Anthropology's hat was painted green, like other work hats of this type she examined, and comments that: "Emmons asserts that the paint assists in the water repellency of this [type of] hat, which was undoubtedly worn in the worst weather (Emmons 1993, 256.) ... De Laguna states that among the Yakutat Tlingit, "In rainy weather, a conical basketry hat ... woven of spruce roots was worn. This had a sloping brim and was tied under the chin but was not otherwise described" (de Laguna 1972, 436)."