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Strap Dress with Red and Green Embroidery50.67.2

This dress is composed of four sections of very white and pliable skin, probably employing at least two deer or caribou hides. Two large pieces of skin were sewn together to form the front and back of the dress and the upper edge of the skin is turned down as a long graceful flap to the waist. Two smaller pieces of skin are added to serve as shoulder straps. The entire dress, including the quillwork, is sewn together with thread. The seams that join the two major sections are fringed. Fringe near the shoulder is clipped very short so that it appears "pinked" and the fringe at the bottom of the dress is wrapped with orange and blue porcupine quills. The decoration of the shoulder straps is somewhat unusual as it differs from front to back. Scallops terminate the straps on the dress' front' while fringes decorate the shorter ends of the straps at the back. The straps are also decorated with a row of tiny black beads that edge the sides of these straps and surround the three scalloped lobes on each. Pairs of black beads in a double row decorate the section of the strap that intersects with the low neck line. Each scalloped portion of the straps is also ornamented, right and left, with bows made of hide strips wrapped at intervals with orange and light blue quills. Similar string-like ornaments are also attached at the proper right side of the front flap and the proper left side on the black flap. Quillwork strips across the body of the dress are in green, black, brown, white, reddish orange and light blue. Black seed beads and blue pony beads are applied as a scalloped border on an added piece of skin near the hem of the dress and tin cones are suspended in pairs from the apex of each of these beaded curves by thin hide strands wrapped at intervals with orange quills. See Jarvis report in Arts of Americas files.

Culture
Yanktonai, Nakota and Sioux
Material
emulsion cured buckskin, dyed porcupine quill, glass bead, tin, copper tinkler, thread, sinew and pigment
Holding Institution
Brooklyn Museum
View Item Record
Pair of Leggings50.67.9a-b

These leggings are constructed with a long "tab" at each hip, near the top and above each outer seam. Below these tabs the outer seams on the rest of both leggings are decorated with one vertical strip of porcupine quillwork on each, outlined with beads in red, white-centered red, and black. The small seed bead and the cornalined'allepo (the white-centered) beads are not usually found on garments this early. Long fringes ornament the outer seams and the base of each strand is wrapped with red porcupine quills. The top and bottom edges of the leggings have short fringes. Shorter tabs are sewn on the bottom. This is generally referred to as bottom tabbed leggings, a style that permitted the tabs to stream along after the wearer when walking, a fashion that existed for only a brief time.

Culture
Red River Metis, Yanktonai, Nakota and Sioux
Material
buckskin, porcupine quill, seed bead and thread
Holding Institution
Brooklyn Museum
View Item Record
Pair of Chief's Dress Leggings50.67.7b-c

Compared to many other Plains leggings this pair is exceptionally short at 25 inches in length. Most others average over 42 inches on the inside seam and some up to 48 inches, with up to 72 inches on the outside seam. The skin on these leggings is the same light color and texture as matching shirt 50.67.7a. They look new and unworn. The leggings are decorated with a single flap, which are cut into short fringes. These fringes are wrapped with alternating red and blue quills. The top of the leggings have every other fringe cut out to create a toothed effect. Like the shirt, these leggings may be unfinished. There are no ties on the upper portion for looping to a belt or fastening at a thigh flap. However, both leggings have a dart sewn at this area, perhaps indicating that a tie was once attached. There is the possibility that these leggings were made in the Metis fashion, observed on several scouts,as knee high only. This would make them the same length as women's leggings. See Jarvis supplemental file in Arts of Americas office.

Culture
Red River Metis, Yanktonai, Nakota and Sioux
Material
buckskin, pony bead, porcupine quill and thread
Holding Institution
Brooklyn Museum
View Item Record
Chief's Dress Shirt50.67.7a

This dress shirt matches leggings 50.67.7b-c. A lack of ornamentation suggests it may be unfinished (compare this sparse ornamentation to 50.67.4). The shirt has no pierce work, loom-woven quillwork, or ornamentation on the cuffs. At the neck flap, however, there is an outline of blue beads and at intervals below, an additional two and three bead linear arrangement. There are simply decorated rosettes of concentric rings on either side with centers of plain white skin. Going outward from these centers are rings of quills: light blue; white; red; and a combination of blue and yellow. Following the quills is a ring of white skin, and an outer circle of blue beads. When cleaned in 1992, a fringe damaged by old insect damage became detached at the center of the proper left shoulder. The edges of the torn section were backed and reattached.

Culture
Red River Metis, Yanktonai, Nakota and Sioux
Material
buckskin, glass bead, dyed hair, porcupine quill and thread
Holding Institution
Brooklyn Museum
View Item Record
Pair of Red and Brown Striped Leggings for Chief's Dress50.67.3b-c

These leggings match 50.67.3a. The treatment of the skin of the leggings seems close to that of the shirt in texture and color as well as similar to the leggings of 50.67.9a-b. However, the color of the painting on the shirt and leggings differ with the shirt having red and black pigment and the leggings painted a reddish brown. The leggings show signs of use. The top is stretched and the ties twisted to conform to how they would have been tied. The leggings have tabbed bottoms, cut short across the top of the inset. The internal fringe is quite long, some 10 1/2 inches at the longest. Both leggings are painted with horizontal stripes, the proper right with nine stripes and the left with ten. The color varies from orange on the front to brown on the back.

Culture
Yanktonai, Nakota, Sioux and Red River Metis
Material
buckskin, pigment and sinew
Holding Institution
Brooklyn Museum
View Item Record
Pair of Moccasins50.67.23a-b

Constructed from a single piece of recycled buffalo hide, formerly painted, these side seam moccasins retain some of the design known as "box and border," in particular one of the terminal parts of the "box" pattern on the painted soles. The painting may have been scraped off the piece of the skin that forms the upper section. The decoration of the vamp is primarily bird quills. These "U" shaped sections of the moccasins are made up of concentric parallel lines. The bottom of the "U", nearer the toe, is composed of three yellow bands, alternating with orange. The upper part of the"U" is physically continuous with this, but is delineated by an abrupt change in color. Alternating rectangles of brown and blue make up the parallel, shorter bands in this section. Thin rows of yellow, orange, and black porcupine quill cover the side seam. Blue pony beads adorn the edge of the tongue and cuff. The laces are ornamented at the tips with tin cones stuffed with red deer hair. All the sewing is done with sinew. See Jarvis supplemental file in Arts of Americas' office.

Culture
Sioux, Yanktonai and Nakota
Material
hide, bead, bird quill, porcupine quill, tin, deer hair, sinew and pigment
Holding Institution
Brooklyn Museum
View Item Record
Chief's War Shirt50.67.11

This shirt is constructed with very little tailoring. It is left open at the sides and a triangular bib is sewn on at the neck. This bib is decorated with blue pony beads, patterned with rows of triangles. Strips made of porcupine quillwork and maidenhair fern stems have been placed on the arms, shoulders and as epaulets. Long buckskin fringes have been added at the sides of the shirt, the bottom, and the sleeves. The shirt is dyed a yellowish-orange color. On the proper right side, many narrow, brown, horizontal bands that are bisected at one end have been painted. These have been said to stand for horse whips. On the proper left, four hourglass shapes, almost completely filled in with black, have been painted. They have been said to stand for cloth or blankets. The triangular neck flap is beaded somewhat differently from front to back. The front shows two rows of triangles whereas the back includes a third row that contains two triangles. The blue beads visually square off the pointed end of the skin and are similar to the design on Jarvis shirt 50.67.1a.

Culture
Sioux, Yanktonai and Nakota
Material
buckskin, dye, pigment, glass bead, porcupine quill, maidenhair fern stem and sinew
Holding Institution
Brooklyn Museum
View Item Record
Decorated Shirt50.67.3a

The object is the shirt of a Yanktonai Sioux Man. It matches leggings #50.67.3b-c. It is constructed of soft light tan pliable leather. The sides of the shirt are open and have leather thongs to lace them together. The lower edge of the shirt is cut into short rectangles like a fringe. The large triangular bibs frame the neck, one at the front of the shirt, and one at the back, and are decorated with red and black dots. The neck is decorated with dark blue cut glass beads spaced about 1 1/2 inches apart. The lower edges of the shirt, the sleeve cuffs, and the triangular neckpieces are decorated with diamond-shaped perforations in lines, triangles and face patterns. There is a porcupine quill medallion in the center of the chest at the bottom point of the triangle. It is made up of concentric rings of red, blue, yellow, brown, and white plaited quills. The seams of the shoulders and the sleeves are decorated with leather fringes and red and blue quills wrapped around hair bundles. Among some tribes it is believed that hair carries some of the characteristics of the person or animal from which it comes. Therefore, using hair in clothing may give the wearer additional strength, speed, or another positive attribute. Each sleeve is decorated on the underside with a series of seven black lines. The body of the shirt is also decorated with drawings of hunting scenes that include horses, a bison, and spears. Holes in the leather are backed with red stroud cloth. Stroud cloth is a coarse, close-weave wool textile that was imported from England and commonly used among Native Americans in garments and blankets. Red was the most frequently used color although navy and green were also produced and traded, and the colored selvedges were often prized as decorative elements. The shirt is in stable condition. There is old insect damage to the medallion quills. Many of the quills are faded. Also, some of the red stroud cloth patches have old insect damage. A leather tassel is torn along decorative perforations. See additional material in Jarvis report in Arts of Americas' files.

Culture
Yanktonai, Nakota, Sioux and Red River Metis
Material
buckskin, porcupine quill, glass bead, pigment and sinew
Holding Institution
Brooklyn Museum
View Item Record
Chief's War Shirt50.67.4

This elaborate shirt is decorated with beads and quillwork executed in several techniques. The bib has a heart and two flower sprays in red, green, and blue porcupine quills. The top edge is decorated with blue pony beads in a two-bead edging technique: red garnet beads were applied along the sides with the same technique. An inner broken line border of small red and black seed beads are also sewn on the bib. Two"rays" or "spokes". The inner ring, now grey, is surrounded by a ring of light blue which is then encircled by a red ring. The radiant rays are filled with areas quilled in pale yellow, light blue, and orange. Each entire rosette is encircled at the seam by large blue pony beads. The shoulder seam "coverings" were finely woven on a loom, but are now very deteriorated. A geometric pattern of red and blue "Xs", interspersed with red and blue diamonds are edged with small squares in red, black, and blue. The shoulder strips are checkered, quilled with three lines of colored squares in orange, blue, purple, black, yellow and white and finished along the sides with a zigzag pattern. The seam ornaments and shoulder strips are both edged with a single line of the blue pony beads. Tabs along each side and along the sleeves have pierced decoration. The "cuffs" are ornamented with two lines of blue pony beads. First, a single line and then a double line closer to the opening.The side seams and sleeves have long fringes, but very tiny fringes at the wrist, with every other one wrapped with orange quills. The comparitively simple decoration and unwrapped fringe are possibly due to the fact the shirt produced exclusively for sale and so rated less decoration. See Jarvis report in Arts of Americas' files.

Culture
Red River Metis, Yanktonai, Nakota and Sioux
Material
buckskin, porcupine quill, garnet bead, pony bead, seed bead and thread
Holding Institution
Brooklyn Museum
View Item Record
Pair of Leggings for Chief's War Dress50.67.1b-c

This pair of leggings was acquired as a set with shirt 50.67.1a. Like most men's leggings they extend from the top of the foot to the top of the hip and were meant to be fastened at the waist with a belt. The leggings are long enough that a large portion of skin hung over the wearer's belt and fit the leg tightly. The bottom tabs are actually the forelegs of the animal and they might be left to drag behind or rolled up and tied around the ankle. The proper left legging is colored red, while on the right it is a dark brown and this creates a mirror image of the colors on the matching shirt. Both leggings are painted with brown vertical stripes. The pinkish cast over both leggings and shirt has been reported to be earth paint; the brown identified as possibly limonite found in shallow pond bottoms or at the edges of bogs. The stripes seem to be applied with a stiff instrument, perhaps a bone brush. A large black and white (eagle?) feather is attached to one legging. Scalp locks are fastened in a series, as a fringe on the outside of the legs. See Jarvis report in Arts of Americas files.

Culture
Sioux, Yanktonai and Nakota
Material
hide, porcupine quill, scalp lock, pony bead, maiden hair fern, horse hair and dye
Holding Institution
Brooklyn Museum
View Item Record