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Bag1330/3

Small, flat, rectangular, multi-coloured pouch made by folding a long, narrow, embroidered panel in half crosswise and stitching up the long sides, leaving one narrow end open. The embroidery is so densely worked that almost none of the background textile is visible. The two sides of the pouch are similar in design and colour, but one side is more heavily embellished than the other. Each side has a rectangular centre design panel embroidered with diamond shaped geometric forms and mirror work; the central panel is surrounded by yellow, green and white motifs worked in detached interlacing stitch. The designs are bordered with rows of yellow square chain stitch and a black “braid” made from dense bundles of black thread that are laid and couched. A tassel made from thread is sewn at each corner. One red glass bead is sewn on one side, at the lower right of the design field. The pouch is lined with off-white cotton muslin.

Culture
Rabari ?
Material
cotton fibre, silk fibre, glass, silver alloy metal ? and dye
Made in
Gujarat, India ? or Rajasthan, India ?
Holding Institution
MOA: University of British Columbia
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Bag1330/2

Small, flat, rectangular, multi-coloured pouch made by folding a long, narrow embroidered panel in half crosswise and stitching up the long sides, leaving one narrow end open. The embroidery is so densely worked that almost none of the background textile is visible. The two sides of the pouch are almost identical in design and colour. Each side of the pouch has a rectangular centre design panel embroidered with diamond shaped motifs and mirrors, worked with multi-coloured thread, outlined with black, on red cotton muslin; the central panel is bordered with a row of mirrors that are outlined with metallic thread and set between rows of black “braid” made from dense bundles of black thread that are laid and couched. Closely-spaced, faded red pompoms are sewn into the side seams. At the open end of the pouch is a casing made from grey-green cotton fabric. The pouch is lined with dark green cotton fabric.

Culture
Indian: Northern Indian and Indian: Central Indian
Material
cotton fibre, silk fibre, glass, silver alloy metal ? and dye
Made in
Gujarat, India ? or Rajasthan, India ?
Holding Institution
MOA: University of British Columbia
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Textile1330/14

A square of red cotton muslin embroidered with bold, multicoloured, circular motifs and bordered on three sides by geometric figures. The main design field is divided into four quadrants, each containing a large mandala of concentric circles worked in stem stitch and interlacing stitch, with a mirror in the centre of each circle. In the middle of the design field is a slightly larger mandala with a more elaborate centre containing a number of small mirrors. There are small, circular mirrors and square embroidered motifs scattered in a regular pattern over the red background. The edges are bound with black cotton gauze on all four sides. The embroidery is not underlined.

Culture
Rabari ?
Material
cotton fibre, glass, silver alloy metal ? and dye
Made in
Gujarat, India ?
Holding Institution
MOA: University of British Columbia
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Door Hanging1330/13

Lavishly embroidered over-doorway hanging with bold, multicoloured designs on a predominantly red background. The hanging consists of a long, narrow, horizontal, central panel to which are attached seven small, U-shaped “pennants” that are arranged side-by-side along the lower edge. The designs on the central panel are alternating flower and parrot motifs, worked in chain stitch; at the right-hand end of this panel, there is a narrow band of red cotton textile, embellished with interlacing stitch, that does not match the rest of the panel in design or colouration. The pennants are embroidered with floral motifs in chain stitch on red or black cotton textile; the designs on the pennants are very similar to one another, but differ in colouration. All edges are bound with three (sometimes four) strips of black, yellow, green and/or red cotton binding. Tassels made of bundles of cloth scraps are sewn at intervals along the top and side edges and at the bottom of each pennant. The various components of the hanging are underlined with scraps of printed cotton gauze. Loops of braided fibre are sewn on the top corners.

Culture
Rabari ? or Kachhi ?
Material
cotton fibre, silk fibre ?, glass, silver alloy metal ? and dye
Made in
Gujarat, India ?
Holding Institution
MOA: University of British Columbia
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Wall Hanging1330/12

Large, square, embroidered wall hanging, featuring multicoloured representations of the elephant-headed god Ganesh, female human figures, birds, rats and flowers, worked in chain stitch with multicoloured silk or rayon thread on cotton muslin. A large, square field of dark brown muslin in the centre of the piece is divided roughly into four quadrants, each containing an identical scene of Ganesh seated under an umbrella, within a shrine, and attended by two women bearing flowers, several birds and a rat. In the centre of this field is a decorative strip of various designs, representing women, male figures mounted on horseback, peacocks and mandalas or sun symbols. There is a 3-tiered border (18.5 cm) of red muslin, embroidered with flowers, triangles and wavy lines, surrounding the main design field on all four sides. The hanging is underlined with dark brown cotton muslin. Loops made from brown cotton textile are sewn on at all four corners. Some of the block-printed embroidery guidelines are still visible.

Culture
North India ?
Material
cotton fibre, rayon fibre ?, silk fibre ? and dye
Made in
Rajasthan, India ? or Gujarat, India ?
Holding Institution
MOA: University of British Columbia
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Dowry Bag1330/11

Large, flat, rectangular bag or dowry sack, constructed from two pieces of embroidered textile which are stitched together on three edges with blanket stitch; the fourth edge is roughly finished and left completely open. The bag is made of off-white cotton muslin and is lavishly decorated with bold, multicoloured embroideries on both sides. The two sides are very similar to each other but are not identical. The central motif on each side is a scene representing a tree of life; on one side this motif is surmounted by images of two women bearing water pots, while on the other side the tree of life is surrounded by images of peacocks. On both sides are representations of temples, door hangings and wall hangings. The central images are surrounded by square and round geometric designs embellished with mirrors. Borders on three sides of the central motif are embroidered with round geometric patterns and large mirrors on strips of black and red cotton muslin. The embroideries are underlined with a heavier off-white cotton textile which is pieced together.

Culture
Rabari ? or Vaghadia ?
Material
cotton fibre, silk fibre, glass, silver alloy metal ? and dye
Made in
Gujarat, India ?
Holding Institution
MOA: University of British Columbia
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Wedding Scarf1330/9

Man’s long, narrow, rectangular scarf or sash, heavily embroidered with multicoloured geometric and floral motifs and many mirrors. Arranged along the length of the scarf are sixteen square and rectangular blocks of embroidered designs, consisting of a variety of motifs, many different kinds of stitches and two styles of embroidery (kharek and pakka). The embroidery is so dense that it completely covers the background textile. The blocks of embroidery are separated by black “braid” formed from bundles of black cotton thread which is laid and couched with red thread. There is a border of silver and gold mirrors along all four edges, and the ends are embellished with green and pink beadwork and small red-orange silk tassels. A binding of dark green cotton muslin is machine-stitched along the outside edges. The underlining is pieced from plain and printed cotton and rayon(?) textile in various shades of red.

Culture
Ahir ?, Rabari ? or Meghwal ?
Material
cotton fibre, silk fibre, wool fibre ?, rayon fibre ?, glass, silver alloy metal ? and dye
Made in
Gujarat, India ? or Rajasthan, India ?
Holding Institution
MOA: University of British Columbia
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Dowry Bag1330/8

Small, flat, square, embroidered envelope-style bag, detailed with mirrors and pompoms, made by folding and stitching together three corners of a flat, square panel to form a pocket, with the fourth corner left open to serve as a flap or cover. The square-shaped embroidered motifs, formed from bars of satin stitch outlined in black, are grouped together into larger squares that are arranged in a grid, separated with narrow bands of alternating mirror-work and floral designs that form an X on the back of the bag. The square is bordered with mirror-work, alternating with floral designs. The embroidery is so dense that it completely covers the background textile. There are glass beads sewn onto the seams, which are worked in fine interlacing stitch. Small pompoms and glass beads are stitched to the lower corners. At the intersection of the three corners is a small white button, embellished with small coloured glass beads. The embroidery is underlined with red cotton textile that is printed with multicoloured designs.

Culture
Indian: Northern Indian and Indian: Central Indian
Material
cotton fibre, silk fibre, glass, silver alloy metal ? and dye
Made in
Gujarat, India ? or Rajasthan, India ?
Holding Institution
MOA: University of British Columbia
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Wall Hanging1029/13

Rectangular, appliquéd wall hanging or canopy, featuring repeated motifs formed from pieces of grey, red, yellow and tan cotton textile which have been cut, the edges turned under and slip-stitched down onto an off-white cotton textile background. In the large central field, there are 28 identically shaped square motifs, measuring approximately 20 cm x 20 cm, with stylized floral centres, arranged in a multicoloured checkerboard pattern. Around the edges there is an appliquéd border of abstracted elephant motifs on all four sides, edged with two rows of red and grey sawtooth designs. Small loops of cotton string are spaced at the corners and at intervals along the edges.

Culture
Kathi ? or Rabari ?
Material
cotton fibre and dye
Made in
Gujarat, India ? or Rajasthan, India ?
Holding Institution
MOA: University of British Columbia
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Head Cloth2615/16

Head cloth made of translucent orange synthetic material with embroidered flowers lining the two longest sides and scalloped edging lining the two shortest sides. Tiny groupings of an embroidered three teardrop design appear evenly across the head cloth.

Culture
Gujarati
Material
synthetic fibre and dye
Made in
Dhamlej, Gujarat, India
Holding Institution
MOA: University of British Columbia
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